Drive 75 and a Sticker?

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by MOW ED, Apr 12, 2002.

  1. MOW ED

    MOW ED LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,028

    I am considering the use of Drive 75 df on a lawn with a bad crabgrass problem , the lawn is predominant KY blue/red fescue/rye mix. Cool season grasses in Wisconsin. Plenty of moisture this time of year so timing issues are not a problem. I have read the label but I still have a question.
    The label states that it is more effective if you use a MSO along with the drive. First of all is it necessary to use a sticker?

    I currently have a jug of a product that is called Chem-Stik by Precision labs and I am not sure if it qualifies as a MSO.
    I looked on CDMS and it is not listed. The jug states that it is a non-ionic spreader sticker. I have used it with Millennium Ultra as it came recommended from the dealer for this use but Drive is not a popular control here and the dealer was not sure if the Chem-Stik is approved.

    I do not have the Drive in my posession yet so I can't do a jar test.

    The main ingredients in the Chem-Stik are
    Emulsifiable Polyethylene + Alkyl Phenoxy Polythoxy Ethanol 26%

    Does anyone know if this would work as an approved mix before hand? If not what do you recommend? I do not have a Lesco around so that won't work.

    Another question, I will be applying .86 team pro and 20-3-5 fert tomorrow. I plan on spraying the drive in early May. Are there any issues with spraying a post M on a lawn that has been treated with pre-M granular?

    Also, what are your experiences with drive 75 positive or negative and do you have any tips for me?
     
  2. tremor

    tremor LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,476

    Mow Ed,

    You're not the only one who's confused by that label. Even half the people who sell the stuff don't have a clue. I sell it & did the homework. Here's the deal.
    Drive requires a "spreading agent" to lay the material out onto the leaf. This ensures better contact with the leaf. BASF suggests using crop oils or methylated seed oil (MSO). Most of the folks I deal with don't know where to buy MSO around here. I don't either. So the majority use a regular non-ionic surfactant based spreader sticker. For the purpose of post emergant effect from Drive, this works even better than MSO's. BUT... for the purpose of setting up a preemergent barrier with Drive, this hinders results. A sticker tries to keep the active ingredient on the targeted plant. Drive sets a pre barrier only after it has been washed down into the soil. This is rather tough to do if the sticker is working.
    All the same, most of my customers don't go out of their way to use oils. They get by fine with Spreader Sticker.
    One of my customers uses regular horticultual oil as the spreader & swears by it. I don't promote this because our Hort Oil isn't labeled for this use. I doubt the dying weeds care, but the state DEP pesticide division does.
    To get the most out of Drive & to follow the label to the letter of the law, find MSO & use it for situations where it's neither too early nor too late in the year to get the most out of Drives 4 week residual.
    Drive does a great job controlling all the weeds it's labeled for.

    Steve
     
  3. ohiolawnguy

    ohiolawnguy LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 391

    drive 75 puts acclaim to shame, and we use only the lesco supplied sticker. simply because ive never thought to try anythig else instead.

    but, we only use drive AFTER the crabgrass has shown its ugly self, and not as a preventative before it shows up.

    i know this doesn't help you much, but it is all i have to offer.
     
  4. dwost

    dwost LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,666

    Question, I don't have a huge crabgrass problem, but I do have some that I'd like to get rid of on my own property. I don't have a pull behind sprayer either. If I wanted to apply the Drive myself, what would be the best approach? Should I rent a sprayer? Are there applications where I can use a hose end sprayer?? Thanks for the help.
     
  5. MOW ED

    MOW ED LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,028

    http://www.cdms.net/pfa/LUpdateMsg.asp

    Drive 75 is a dry flowable and it is preferable to use agitiation to keep things moving in the tank. It also has to be used with a sticker, I used Chem Stick, which is a non-ionic sticker.

    It works great but if you dont have a big crabgrass problem you may find that 100 bucks for an acre of coverage is a little steep. That will treat an acre of crabgrass. No need to treat uneffected areas.

    Go to the site above and check on the MSDS and Mfgrs Lable to give you some guidance. You first have to check if it is registered for use in your state and if you need a license to apply.

    Good Luck.
     
  6. dwost

    dwost LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,666

    Thanks for the info. I don't have a bad crabgrass problem at all. There are a few spots in my yard that could use a treatment. I would be able to hit it with a hose end type sprayer if Drive would work in that kind of fashion. I want to find something that I can use relatively easily without having to rent a bunch of gear. I do have some MSMA that I've used before, but I'm not wild about having my lawn turn yellow before it starts working. Any other products that can be recommended for my application?? TIA
     
  7. dwost

    dwost LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,666

    I looked at my yard last night and most of this stray grass is within a 2,500 sqft area of my lawn. Could I get away using a hand pump sprayer to apply?? TIA
     
  8. MOW ED

    MOW ED LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,028

    If you have a license to buy the stuff you can apply it in a pump or backpack sprayer at a rate of 0.367oz per 1000 sq ft in a minimum of 0.5 gal of water per 1000 sq ft. Remember to use MSO or some other type of non ionic sticker.
    Remember to wear your PPE and clean everything real well when you are done.
    Thats alot of bucks to shell out for only 2500 sq ft.
    Good Luck.
     

Share This Page