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dry creek bed

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by scottt, Apr 23, 2002.

  1. scottt

    scottt LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 269

    I'm getting a bid together for my first dry creek bed. I am trying to figure out how long it will take to finish the job. I know there are a lot of variables, but does anyone have an average time by the square foot or anything else that could help? It will be in a backyard and the only acces is through a 40" gate. Also, I am trying to figure out a way to keep the bermuda from growing into the creek bed. Any ideas for an edging or something that would not ruin look but keep the grass out?
  2. lawnstudent

    lawnstudent LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 472

    I haven't built a dry creek bed before. Seems the price per sq. ft. is going to be based upon:

    1) the amount of digg'n
    2) what you have to do with the digg'ns
    3) what you got to do that digg'n
    4) the cost of the materials
    5) how far you got to move them materials
    6) what you got to move them materials
    7) and the time to place them materials

    a lot of these variables are specifc to your operation and only you know that info.

    On the edging can you use a chemical barrier? Maybe one of the ground sterilizers. I know from my days in Az. that bermuda is pretty aggresive. Will send rhizomes under, stolons over and seeds every-where-else. Good luck.

  3. garydale

    garydale LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 813


    I would break job down to phases or steps and use manhours for each step.( ie: Digging - 3 cubic feet per manhour X estimated volume.)
    Apply a manhour amount to each step of the whole job.

    Markup materials a percentage to cover loss,waste and miscalculations.

    Most people forget to include Cleanup,Load and Travel time, allow something for them.

    Chemical barrier for Bermuda???
  4. prairie

    prairie LawnSite Member
    from kansas
    Posts: 115

    I've used the steel edging in a couple of dry creek beds and it works great, keeps the rock, mulch or whatever you use in the beds all the time.

    make sure you bid by the yard, use the large rocks first then mulch or smaller rocks after you have placed the larger bolders or rocks first. this is very important to do. you can always change the larger rocks around after you place them, but it a real burdon to move the larger rocks after you put the much or small rock type gravel down.
  5. lawnstudent

    lawnstudent LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 472

    Metal edging with bermuda? Stuff better be deeper than 3". Bermuda will shoot right under any edging only 3" deep.

  6. prairie

    prairie LawnSite Member
    from kansas
    Posts: 115

    use weed mat or Roud-Up and you wont have a problem

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