DVF-100 not working correctly

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by F6Hawk, Jul 5, 2005.

  1. F6Hawk

    F6Hawk LawnSite Member
    Posts: 195

    While flooding the trenches today, I noticed I have one valve that in order to get water to flow, I have to turn it enough to get water to leak from the solenoid. Took the solenoid off and it appears clear, even ran some water thru it to flush it, but still the only way to get it to operate manually is to unscrew until water leaks. Any ideas? Should I take the top off and clean it out, or call the dealer and request a new one?

    Brand new system, new parts, etc. Other valves work as advertized, 1/4 turn and they are on.
  2. jerryrwm

    jerryrwm LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,274

    There is probably some trash in the exhaust port or around the metering oricies on the diaphragm. Shut the water down, take off the valve bonnet (cover) and clean the trash out. Use a marking flag to help clear the exhaust port and waterway on the valve cover. These are the little water passages that you need to have clear in order for the valve to operate.

    Luck to ya,

  3. F6Hawk

    F6Hawk LawnSite Member
    Posts: 195

    Thanks, Jerry, will do tonight and let you know if all is well again.
  4. F6Hawk

    F6Hawk LawnSite Member
    Posts: 195

    I have tried everything I know, but it looks like nothing doing except to replace the valve.

    I first swapped solenoids, and still it leaks when turning it on manually. I then swapped tops, flushing the valve while the top was off. And tonight, I swapped everything I could, top, diaphragm, etc, and still it leaks when turning it on, and of course, the solenoid just hums with no water flow when I turn it on. What a bummer, and it is a slip, too, so I will have to tear up my work-of-art manifold to replace the darn thing!

    If anyone has any other ideas besides replacement, I sure would appreciate your input. It SEEMS to me that the little orifice that the solenoid seats on may be too high. I will take two apart tomorrow and get a measurement, but for now that is all that I can conlude.
  5. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    And people said I was crazy for using threaded valves :)
  6. F6Hawk

    F6Hawk LawnSite Member
    Posts: 195

    Yeah, but threaded or not, I would still have to cut pipe in there. Unless it ever becomes cost- & room-effective to put unions in the boxes. :(
  7. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    But you only need to cut the pipe on the downstream side, then you spin the valve off the male adapter (This is why I dont cram 15 valves in box like Wetboots suggested), spin the new one on, and use a flowspan or quickcouple outside of the box to rehook the sprinkler line.

    Quick...painless...and no manifolds to rebuild.
  8. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,697

    Check the small passages on the valve body, before you give up. Maybe opening it up with a small drill bit. I don't know if excess glue could be blocking water flow, but if everything else checks out, that would leave the valve body. A 'pin vise' might be useful for holding a small diameter drill bit.

    I was going to snap a photo of one of my more crowded valve boxes, but a chipmunk decided to move in, and had filled up the box with dirt. :mad:
  9. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    Take the bonnet off and swap it out. Swap it w/ one of your other valves first and make sure the obstruction is in the valve/bonnet. Then go to where you picked up your supplies w/ bad bonnet/diaphram and swap out the bad parts from a new one. In our case, I would inventory the extra valve and then return the warranty parts. You probably don't want to inventory a spare valve (although one spare valve would mean a spare diaphram, solenoid, etc.) If the obstruction is in the body, all you need to do is clear the port. Small piece of wire should take care of it.
    Good luck
  10. F6Hawk

    F6Hawk LawnSite Member
    Posts: 195

    I did the swapping thing. Solenoids, bonnets, diaphragms, with at least two other valves. That is what makes me think it is in the valve body itself, not the bonnet. And I don't think it is an obstruction in the passages, because it takes so many turns on the solenoid. Almost like the orifice the solenoid rests on is sitting too high. But I will look at it again today in the brightness of daylight, and check all passages.

    Thanks for the input!

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