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Dylox results

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by philk17088, Sep 17, 2004.

  1. philk17088

    philk17088 LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 17,386

    How is everybody doing with control of grubs using dylox? I'm getting very mixed results, even in the same lawn. I have checked and re-checked my calibration,but the results aren't so great.
    I have upped the rate this week because the grubs are larger and hope it stops them. I'm half tempted to take the tree truck out and flood them with sevin! :realmad:
  2. Coffeecraver

    Coffeecraver LawnSite Senior Member
    from VA.
    Posts: 793

    My research came up with this:
    Hope it helps :)

    Grub Control Options for Home Lawns
    It's time for our annual discussion about lawn grubs. Want to put fear
    into the heart of a lawn connoisseur? Just point to a brown patch in
    the lawn and yell grubs!

    Grubs are the immature stages of some beetles. In our area the highest
    populations are annual white grubs. Grubs are whitish, "c" shaped and
    wormlike. The adult is the tan 3/4 inch June beetle. Each morning I
    find June beetles doing the back stroke in the dog's water bowl (or is
    it the dog paddle).

    Some lawn areas are more attractive to June bugs laying eggs. More eggs
    are deposited at night in warm soil areas such as next to sidewalks
    and driveways and often near outside lights. Open areas free of trees
    and shrubs are preferred and moist soil is favored over dry soil. This
    year egg laying is likely to be concentrated in watered lawns since
    most unirrigated lawn areas are dry. The ultimate irony - in most years
    highly managed turfs are more likely to get hit with grubs.

    Eggs will start hatching the first of August. Damage will usually occur
    in August through October. Grubs feed on grass roots until the grass
    dries out and dies. The turf can easily be pulled back like a carpet.
    Turf can survive some feeding. Less heavily watered turf should be
    scouted for grubs in early August. Peel back the grass. Just a couple
    grubs per square foot are not a problem to an otherwise healthy lawn.
    Ten or more per square foot are necessary to justify treatment.

    Home gardeners have some options for grub control: Don't water during
    July and August. If the weather is hot and dry, cool season grasses
    such as Kentucky bluegrass will go dormant. If a few grubs are detected
    , water and fertilize appropriately so turf can recover from some
    feeding then reseed or resod areas damaged.

    Several pesticides are available for grub control. Diazinon has been
    the home gardener's standby for many years. Diazinon is long lasting
    and effective, but it can commonly take 3 weeks to kill treated grubs.

    Although treated grubs do little feeding, it can be upsetting to still
    see live grubs after treatment.

    Trichlorfon sold as Dylox is an effective pesticide, but it is short
    lived. Grubs need to be present when this insecticide is applied, but
    it kills grubs quickly. Dylox is good for rescue situations when damage
    is ocurring.

    Imidicloprid sold as Merit or Grubex is fairly new to the home gardener
    market. It is very long lasting. However imidicloprid takes three
    weeks to kill grubs in many situations. Although it is sometimes
    marketed for spring application, it should be applied in July once it
    is determined that numbers of adults are high enough and that the soil
    moisture like this year is low enough to concentrate heavy egg laying
    in irrigated turf. In other words, if you see large numbers of beetles
    eyeing your lawn and no one else's.

    With all home gardener applied products it is recommended that granular
    formulations be applied and then irrigated in through the thatch to
    the root zone with at least two inches of water. Be sure to read and
    follow all label directions.

    Parasitic nematodes are showing mixed results. Adequate soil moisture
    is critical to their effectiveness and survival.

    Spikes O' Death, usually sold as lawn aerator sandals, actually showed
    fairly good results in killing lawn grubs in a Colorado State study.
    Researchers had to walk the lawn three to five times to achieve an
    average of two nail insertions per inch providing entertainment for
    the neighbors and aerobic exercise.

    The biological insecticides containing milky disease sold as Japdemic,
    Doom and Grub Attack, while effective on Japanese beetle grubs, do not
    control annual white grubs.

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  3. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,956

    Dylox has a very short shelf life and humidity will affect the effectiveness. High pH soils will also cause Dylox to lose its effectiveness. If you have limed recently you may find Dylox will not work at all.

    Grubs being subterraneous are not always at the same depth. Therefore you may kill the ones near the surface and not those 3 to 4 inches deeper because the Dylox has lost it's effectiveness by the time it leaches that deep. Carbamates are a Little better but doesn't have a great deal more residual.

    Now given that your Dylox is good, you might try Soap powder. I know this sounds like Jerry (idiot) Baker. But by applying something like Tide you will bring the Grubs to the surface where the Dylox or Carbamate can get them. Of course the Soap powder must be watered in and give a few days to do it job.
  4. Russ

    Russ LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 539

    The guys at Purdue were just talking about this;

    September Grub Damage

    White grub damage on turfgrass may be more widespread than many expected this year. With ample rain and favorable growing conditions for most host plants during the early and mid growing season, high concentrations of adult Japanese beetles were not as common as in previous years. This may have lulled turfgrass managers into forgetting about the beetle or assuming that the populations were too low to worry about. Such was not the case, however, and the grub damage reports that are beginning to flood our office, validate that fact. Some of the damage caused by grubs is still reversible if the grubs are treated ASAP and the turfgrass is pampered with irrigation and fertilizer during these last few weeks of fall growth. Dylox is still the best product to apply at this late date for grub control. Most other chemicals do not work well on large grubs. Be sure to water it in thoroughly if possible. Take advantage of any fall rains that the hurricanes might spawn in our area in the next few days. Also, keep in mind that Dylox sometimes requires 7-10 days to kill the grubs after application. Don¹t be in too big of a hurry to apply a second application thinking the first didn¹t work.

    Timothy Gibb, Turfgrass Entomologist.
  5. Pilgrims' Pride

    Pilgrims' Pride LawnSite Senior Member
    from MA.
    Posts: 481

    I use dylox often and usually have good results.
    Remind customers that it must be watered in properly.
    (You can't kill'm if you don't hit'm)
    As far as applying at higher rates, doesnt the label carry rates for sod webworm (2lbs per m and 3lbs per m for grubs?)
    Those rates should work fine as long as ph is correct, there isn't to much thatch, and the product is properly watered.
  6. philk17088

    philk17088 LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 17,386

    Thanks fellas! I guess I'm getting a little squirrely. I forgot about that the grubs will stop feeding but will still be alive. The calls just keep coming and my worst fear is retreating a half million square feet at no charge! :help:
  7. James Cormier

    James Cormier LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Ma
    Posts: 1,218

    Also keep in mind you need over 10 per sqft to do damage, just because you see one here and there dosnt mean the control is not working.
  8. TSM

    TSM LawnSite Senior Member
    from MA
    Posts: 707

    I'm not sure what the shelf life is for dylox but we have about 20 bags that have been sitting around (in humid conditions no less) for about 3 years. We dont use a lot of dylox.
    Got a call from a customer who refusses to let us apply anything to his lawn in june, july or august, (so he did not get merit on his lawn) saying he had big brown patches and the lawn was rolling up. So we went out with that old dylox, we did go over label rates and went about 4.5 lbs/1000.
    Talked to the landscaper who is fixing the damaged areas, he says all grubs are black as can be....dead, 15 days following our application.
    We also applied thst old dylox on a lawn back in the summer for sodweb worm at label rate and achieved fair results.

    So, what is the shelf life. I have heard that it is short from several sources but....what is short??
  9. James Cormier

    James Cormier LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Ma
    Posts: 1,218

    TSM, IVe heard as little as 1 years old. I just used some up from 2 or 3 years ago, it seems to have worked fine as well.

    One problem Im finding is cool nights has gotten some of the bent to go dormant and brown, So the customer panics and thinks grubs, so they dig all over the lawn and find one per 10sqft and call me in a panic.
  10. philk17088

    philk17088 LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 17,386

    James, on average we are seeing 15-20 per square foot.

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