Easier Viking oil change?

Discussion in 'eXmark' started by aVOLanche, Jun 24, 2004.

  1. aVOLanche

    aVOLanche LawnSite Member
    Posts: 68

    I have a 48" Viking with the Kohler 15HP.There have been several suggestions on making oil changes easier and to eliminate the mess on the belts,deck,etc.
    Why can't you take a 45 degree 3/8" galvanized elbow(both ends female),screw it on where the cap is (where the oil drains out) and add a 3" or 4" pipe nipple to extend the drain just off the edge of the deck(still above the deck)?
     
  2. eXmark

    eXmark Manufacturer / Sponsor
    Posts: 4,258

    Avolanche,

    I’m not sure I’m completely understanding what you have in mind.

    I would be hesitant to have a drain pipe that extended out to the side of the engine deck. The engine uses a pipe thread for the oil drain which is tapered. It’s literally like screwing a wedge into the drain hole. If you over tighten them you can actually crack the engine block.

    I would be concerned that the pipe may be impacted by objects your trimming around in tight areas which could damage the engine block.

    You may want to visit your local Exmark dealer to see if one of the oil drain valves we are using in production will work or one of the aftermarket valves as well.

    It’s a good suggestion though.

    Thanks,

    Terry
     
  3. aVOLanche

    aVOLanche LawnSite Member
    Posts: 68

    Terry,the elbow would be added to the existing drain pipe where the CAP screws on.This would turn it toward the side of the deck(with about a 3" long additional piece of pipe to get it just to the edge).Then the cap would go back on.I can see your reservations as far as damage to the engine.But I doubt it would be an issue as it's a pretty well protected area.
    Can you describe the factory drain?Thanks!
     
  4. eXmark

    eXmark Manufacturer / Sponsor
    Posts: 4,258

    Avolanche,

    If you run the pipe out that far I would recommend strapping it to the engine deck to prevent vibration form working it loose or worse.

    The valve is a gold valve that screws into the side of the engine block. This valve on some models then drops through the engine deck to a drain pan below........or floor below if you forget the drain pan. Others require you to attach a small length of hose that you can then run down to a drain pain. The valve itself can be opened with a wrench. Some of the aftermarket valves have a push and twist system that opens the valve and oil can the flow out of the engine.

    If you visit your local Exmark dealer you should be able to see the valve on any current production model larger than 21".

    Thanks

    Terry
     
  5. Roger

    Roger LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,927

    I have a 36" Viking, and also got tired of the cumbersome oil change procedure. I put on a short length of galvanized pipe, with a valve at the end, just as suggested. It quickly vibrated loose, just as Terry thought. I had to pull it off quickly, and am now back to the "messy method." I back the wheels onto 2X8's, stacked two high, giving me room to put a standard drain pan underneath. When taking out the plug, hold it close to the opening, so that the draining oil will be deflected downward, through the hole in the deck. When I have the plug reinstalled, the new oil poured in, and the drain pan pulled away, I lay down at the rear of the machine, and wipe off the pulleys on the engine, and the belts. I don't want the old oil getting slung around underneath and the belts getting any more oil than necessary.

    There should be a better way...
     

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