I was reading another thread posted recently about are truck prices really lower right now due to the high costs of fuel. Well here is my take on it.... First off, the dealer is not going to sell you a new truck at a loss. That is the bottom line. The dealer pays a given price for the truck and even if he sells you the truck at that price " Dealer Invoice " price, he still makes a little money at the end of the year, what they call holdback, which is a sort of bonus paid based on how many vehicles he sells for the year. Bottom line is the dealer has to pay a salesman and salesmanager, a detail guy, a mechanic, etc... with all new vehicle sales and the cheapest they will sell you the car for is dealer invoice. Now most cars and trucks these days do come with rebates and other special offers. What you need to do in advance of going to the dealer is find out the following.... 1. What is the invoice price of the vehicle your considering buying 2. look at the vehicle manufactors website and find out what are the current applicable rebates and incentives ( one site you can use to find both of these quickly and easily is www.carsdirect.com ) 3. figure out roughly what your credit score is and based on that you can find out roughly what kind of interest rate you can get. One site I have used to find a good rates on is www.capitalonefinance.com So you know what kind of interest rate you should get, you know what the trucks invoice price is and you know what kind of rebates are out there. Go to the dealer and ask to speak directly with the sales manager, to save you and the salesman time and to cut straight to the chase. Tell the sales manager your willing to buy the truck right here and right now if he is willing to sell you the truck at dealer invoice MINUS all rebates. Give him your Social security # and let them pull your credit and explain that you know you can get a ( whatever it is ) interest rate and you want their finance manager to match that rate. You should know that the dealer is going to add in your sales tax, title and tag fees and some kind of documentation fee ( should be no more than 400$ for the Doc fee, if it is more then either pay it or spend more time finding another dealer with lower doc fees ) Doing a deal this way makes it easy for you to get the bottom line price and saves you and the dealer alot of time avoiding the back and forth deal game they usually play. I do not believe that because gas is so expensive that dealers are going to sell at a loss. The dealers simply can't sell the truck any less than invoice minus the rebates. If truck sales slow down because of gas prices or slowing economy or whatever else.... the dealers will not have room or need to order more new trucks from the manufactor, The manufactor will then be forced to either cut back production and or offer better rebates in order to boost sales and move the units off the dealers lots so the dealer will have the room and need to order more new stock from the manufactor. Don't forget that unless your paying cash - and the dealer would rather finance you since they make a small amount of money as a kickback from the bank for making a loan, and they make no kickbacks when you pay cash.... - you are not only shopping for the best price on the truck but also the best interest rate on the loan. Also when I make deals I could care less about how much the truck itself costs, I always work with OTD ( out the door ) prices, and like I said, some dealers will have over inflated DOC fees and other BS fees they might want to add like for afinish protection plan or body undercoating etc... I am only willing to pay dealer invoice for the truck, minus rebates, and my sales tax, tag and title and no more than 400$ for DOC fees and that is it. Shop around and you will be able to get the same deal. My Tundra stickered for close to 30 grand and I bought it out the door with all fees added and paid only 22,700$ Got a good rate too, as good as I could find anywhere online.