Starting my picture thread for my company. Been in business for a while but decided to break out on my own. Was going to put up a few more pictures, but computer is not letting me. Will try again.
Idk if you posted before, but what piece of equipment do you use to bore with?
Lighting is something I've been looking into, especially because you must have a low voltage license in MN and there are not many companies offering it. The market isnt big yet but I feel it could be a very niche market here. I went to the Kichler LED seminar with my teacher (owns a high end install company) this fall and was very impressed with the technology and how simple the process of installing can be. Posted via Mobile Device
Idk if you posted before, but what piece of equipment do you use to bore with?
Lighting is something I've been looking into, especially because you must have a low voltage license in MN and there are not many companies offering it. The market isnt big yet but I feel it could be a very niche market here. I went to the Kichler LED seminar with my teacher (owns a high end install company) this fall and was very impressed with the technology and how simple the process of installing can be. Posted via Mobile Device
Unfortunately we still bore with the old waterhose, pvc pipe, ball valve & jet nozzle method. It can be messy, and can be a pain at times, but it works in our soil. And it's a cheap setup. When I purchase a dingo sometime, I am going to get the boring attachment for it. Even still, to save yourself a lot of headaches (especially under asphalt) you better make sure you are following the grade on the drive and stay far enough below it that you won't damage the base underneath. Concrete not so much an issue, but you still want to have a good depth of coverage by the time you get out on the other side. Don't want it to be right underneath the pavement.
However, most sidewalks we can get under without the water. We have used things as crude as a t-post in hard soil situations. But it works. I've seen things like the "bullet mole" They seem like they would work well. I have learned that boring (especially the long ones under drives) is the epitome of the old saying "prior planning prevents p*** poor performance."
As far as the install process, it is simple, and it fits well as an up-sell on a sprinkler system. Just saw the latest transformers from FX and they have a really cool 2 wire system with different circuits feature on their newest Luxor controller. And surprisingly, its not that much more expensive of a transformer than it's predecessor.
What kind of seed do you plan on putting out? And will you fertilize at the same time or is that necessary? I've always had trouble getting seed to take on lawns, I guess it just takes lots of water.
What kind of seed do you plan on putting out? And will you fertilize at the same time or is that necessary? I've always had trouble getting seed to take on lawns, I guess it just takes lots of water.
On this lawn, bermuda. Bermuda takes 3x as long to germinate as rye. Rye takes around 7 days, bermuda more like 21+ have to be patient and keep it wet. It does take water. Just instead of infrequent deep waterings like you want for your lawn and plants, you want to have frequent shallow waterings. (The seed is right on top of soil and no root structures. Water that is absorbed by the seed happens very quickly. We will probably water for a few minutes 2-3 times a day. Until we see grass sprouts then back off to 2x per day and then after it can be mowed we will resume a normal watering schedule. Use a good starter fertilizer. Low nitrogen High in phosphorous & a decent supply of potassium.
Remember the elementary rules of Fert. Nitrogen = Vertical plant growth, Phosphorous = fruit production & strong root growth & Potassium = Plant health booster. Make sure you know how much of your desired element you are putting out. The numbers on the bag aren't worth the ink they are written in if you don't know how much of that product you are putting out.
Here is a picture of how the truck lettering actually turned out. Stopped by to pick it up and they were pealing the "Proscapes" off of it. She thought it was too small in the original and was enlarging it. Came back a couple of hours later and she was right. Looks much better. Was very pleased.
Nice and simple, I like it. What did that run if you don't mind? I know were on opposite ends of the country but I haven't gotten any quotes yet for graphics on my truck as it's winter and I cannot afford to have my truck gone for 2-3 days while it gets graphics installed.
On this lawn, bermuda. Bermuda takes 3x as long to germinate as rye. Rye takes around 7 days, bermuda more like 21+ have to be patient and keep it wet. It does take water. Just instead of infrequent deep waterings like you want for your lawn and plants, you want to have frequent shallow waterings. (The seed is right on top of soil and no root structures. Water that is absorbed by the seed happens very quickly. We will probably water for a few minutes 2-3 times a day. Until we see grass sprouts then back off to 2x per day and then after it can be mowed we will resume a normal watering schedule. Use a good starter fertilizer. Low nitrogen High in phosphorous & a decent supply of potassium.
Remember the elementary rules of Fert. Nitrogen = Vertical plant growth, Phosphorous = fruit production & strong root growth & Potassium = Plant health booster. Make sure you know how much of your desired element you are putting out. The numbers on the bag aren't worth the ink they are written in if you don't know how much of that product you are putting out.
Great advice, thanks. I've always heard it this way...Nitrogen=Leaves/Blades, Phosphorus= Blooms, and Potassium = roots. Maybe that's erroneous though.
What fertilizer are you going to be putting out this spring? We put out a 5-20-20 this last fall on some stuff and that's what we will use in the fall from now on, I think we are going to use a 4-3-2 this spring.
Probably a 25-0-0 with micros or 28-3-10 both 50% slow release. Which one depends on soil report recomendations. Most places in my service area are sufficient in phosphorous and potassium. But sometimes P & K aren't available for the plant. Hince the 28-3-10. We are picking up 3 large properties that I may spray with 47-0-0 urea to pop it right after scalping. Have to be carefull with the straight urea. Can burn a property very quickly if done incorrectly.
We really haven't done that much advertising. Probably about to get some shirts made for the crew, friends & family. And thinkning about having the enclosed wrapped. Other than that, I've been trying to keep my facebook updated and thats it. We really need to update website with pictures of most recent work.
As the soil tests are concerned we try to soil test every new property. After you have one on a property, they tend to stay pretty close to the same except for Nitrogen content. You're right we don't have time for an exact science, but I do like to have some idea of what I am working with.
Cool. I've been terrible about keeping my FB page up. The shirts really have helped us, makes for a more professional image.
How many accounts are you up to now?
That's a good rule of thumb. I may have to start doing that at some point.
Cool. I've been terrible about keeping my FB page up. The shirts really have helped us, makes for a more professional image.
How many accounts are you up to now?
That's a good rule of thumb. I may have to start doing that at some point.
We are currently maintaining 12 residental accounts, 1 appartment complex, (will be picking up a second appartment complex after it is finished being built this summer), 2 single site commercial accounts, 3 institutional & 1 multi-site commercial accounts. We are currently bidding 2 other multi-site commercial accounts (number of sites ranging from 4-12). My goal is to have a dedicated 3 man maintenance crew this year. So far we are on track to make that happen. We also have 4 weeks worth of install work lined up, if it will ever give us a break in the rain. Don't wanna complain after last few years, but kinda in a funk right now. Have 2 jobs that only lack the details of getting completed and about the time they dried out enough to finish up, we get more rain. Today's wind kept us from spraying any yards so we were kinda like the israelites in the wilderness today. We were still able to get some things accomplished.
Numbers don't sound like much, but our institutionals are quite large. Each of the 3 takes 1/2 day a peice by the time we tend to beds, shrubs, mowing, trash/debris etc... The multi-site commercial we currently have takes a whole day on one site a lone and takes another 1/2 day for the other three sites that goes a long with it. We can crank through the resi's pretty quickly.
Good to hear. I a few more residential accounts than that but don't have near the commercial, only have 2. One is very small and the other one takes around 8 man hrs. Both are full service. I hope to have a mow crew (or even one guy) out doing maintenance for me this year. Concentrating on more residential accounts right now but hope some more commercial will come my way. Any tips as far as how you got commercial accounts?
Good to hear. I a few more residential accounts than that but don't have near the commercial, only have 2. One is very small and the other one takes around 8 man hrs. Both are full service. I hope to have a mow crew (or even one guy) out doing maintenance for me this year. Concentrating on more residential accounts right now but hope some more commercial will come my way. Any tips as far as how you got commercial accounts?
Establish a reputation and let it do the talking. We really haven't advertised much at all other than Facebook, one newspaper ad and the website. We are going to give the yellowpages a spin this year. To date, I have picked up 1 job off of facebook, no jobs directly off of the website and all of the other ones strictly by word of mouth. Customer has to know without a doubt that they are putting their property in the most capable hands that fit in their budget. There are many jobs, we don't fit the budget, but we get a lot of jobs, because of reputation and experience. (In this I will say that the college degree does help tremendously. It would take years to acquire a great portion of the knowledge I learned through my bachelors degree. I would also say that I learned just as much (if not more) while working (during college) at a golf course & irrigation supply house.
That's funny that you just posted that, because I just started a thread about different landscape degree programs out there. I'm trying to find something online based....there's no way I can give up my business and go to school (nor do I have the desire to do so).
Here are two designs we have lined up. Not very large on either one. But thought I would poll... Color or no color on prints. I have heard it said that color looks amateur and on the other hand, I have had customers like the colors on the plant symbols. These were generated on Pro Contractor Studio. I know it is not as "cool" to look at as some, but I am pleased with it for the price and also really like it's irrigation side of the program. Has already made me look really good for one inspector.
Both are just front yards. The first one has plans of installing a pool in the backyard. We should get the install surround that. And the other is probably doing front this year and back next year. And of course I would pick 2 that have the same type of water feature in it. Oops. Plant material is totally different with the two jobs and style of pottery is totally different as well.
That's funny that you just posted that, because I just started a thread about different landscape degree programs out there. I'm trying to find something online based....there's no way I can give up my business and go to school (nor do I have the desire to do so).
I didn't want to, but I chose a school 4 hours away. Glad I did it. My business wouldn't be supporting my wife and I if I wouldn't of.
I would doubt you would find anything online. Your learn more in your labs with hands-on work. You don't have to give-up your business. Nachadoches isn't that far away from Longview. Go to SFA. You can sometimes schedule classes where they are only on Tuesday and Thursday. That's the way to go. Leaves lots of time to work.
One man's opinion, but I wouldn't waste my time on an online program. I don't know they may be out there and they may be great. But thinking of what I picked up during school, 90% was affirmed in labs. Don't think I would know how to apply what I learned without labs.
I might add, you can do very well in this business without a degree. There are many on here that do very well without. But, personally, I wouldn't be in as good of shape with my new business without.
You may think this sounds crazy, but after years in this field I think it is best to get a business degree if you are going to have your own company. If you plan on working for someone else the horticulture degree would be the way to go.
I can agree with that to a point... My degree program did have some business and accounting courses mixed in, but there are days I wish I would of taken more. It all depends on if I have been out on a job more that day or in a desk chair preparing for quarterly reports. However all of that said I don't ever regret my time spent at Tarleton. Posted via Mobile Device
You may think this sounds crazy, but after years in this field I think it is best to get a business degree if you are going to have your own company. If you plan on working for someone else the horticulture degree would be the way to go.
Mikegyver, You could most likely get a business degree online and do well with it. Turf Dawg, How many years since you graduated and how many years in business?
It depends on your mindset for school. I'm going for a Hort degree and will graduate this spring. I've taken numerous business & accounting classes as accounting is what I was originally going to major in. I have a great knowledge of business, running a business, and treating this as a business and getting out of the field as soon as possible, however I wanted to to learn the in depth Hort aspect and will then be able to pass on some of that knowledge to employees in the field.
After replacing a burned up pump this morning on my sprayer. Sprayed good for one yard and it started clogging. After much "stirring" (thinking the solution had settled out or something while I was changing the pump) I reached into the bottom of the sprayer to find this guy lodged into the intake. Don't ask me how he got in, the tank was closed up all season under the shed... That'll ruin a morning.
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