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electric clutch replacement

Discussion in 'eXmark' started by jason2, Aug 13, 2001.

  1. jason2

    jason2 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 243


    I have a '99 Lazer Z, 52" with 18 horse Kohler. It has 150 hours, and the electric clutch is going out. I run double blades and I'm sure that is why it is failing.

    My question deals with the r and r of the clutch assembly. I do not have a service manual. I imagine it's mounted with a key. Is it simply unplugging the clutch harness, unbolting it and sliding off the unit and relpacing with a new one?

    Also what should I expect as a general price for a replacement clutch?

    I'm not unhappy as the failure has to be with the excessive loads being placed on the clutch. And I plan to continue using double blades with the new clutch.

    Thank you,
  2. awm

    awm LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,354

    i have the same machine and the same concerns about
    my blade engagement system. i went to lighter blades.
    but sometimes you just need the mulcher.later tm
  3. thelawnguy

    thelawnguy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,412

    Have you adjusted it?

    The clutch on my TT was out of adjustment from day one, once adjusted to .015 inch it was (and still is) fine (1500+ hours so far).
  4. jannan

    jannan LawnSite Member
    Posts: 40

    I replaced one on my 97 Lazer a few months ago. Very straightforward, just unplug & unbolt the cables or straps(whichever yours has) slide it off. Reverse for installation. If you buy from Exmark, it will be around $250. You can get one from JThomas for lesss than $200. Are you engageing the clutch at about 3/4 throttle & disengageing at idle. Exmark advised me that this would help prolong the life of the clutch-(we will see).
    How many hours did yours last with doubles on it? And have you been engageing and disengageing as stated above? I am interested because I was thinking about running doubles this fall, but if it will shorten the life of the clutch, I probably won't. Hope this helped.
  5. eXmark

    eXmark Manufacturer / Sponsor
    Posts: 4,258

    Hello Jason,

    You've pretty much got it, there are a couple of extra items that you need to do though.
    Don't forget to put the spacer that goes between the engine and the clutch on the shaft. The bolt that holds the clutch on should have Loctite Prolock on the threads, and be torqued to 50-60 in-lbs.
    The 'pig-tail' wire that goes from the clutch to the wire harness needs to be wire tied to the strap that holds the clutch in place to ensure that it doesn't get snagged by something.
    I show a list price of between $180 and $220 for your clutch. This will be the most recent version, the Warner Mag-Stop 200. Some of this is depends on the age of your machine (whether or not it needs an update kit), and shipping charges can vary from area to area.

    Clutch life is probably most affected by three things. How it's engaged, disengaged, and how often it's 'cycled'.
    I think most people know to engage the clutch at a low rpm, but probably more clutches wear out due to how they are disengaged. Always throttle the engine down to idle before disengaging the clutch. The clutch not only engages the blades, but also serves as a brake. What will happen if the clutch is continually disengaged at high idle, the brake will wear down faster and open up the air gap to the point where the field coil can't draw it back.
    Finally, cycling is another important factor in how long a clutch will last. Clutch life is determined by the number of cycles (how many times it is turned on and off), and not total hours. A unit that mows 10 acre fields all day and only has the clutch turned on and off a couple times of day, is probably(there are always exceptions) going to have longer clutch life than one that mows several small lots requiring the clutch to by cycled more often.

    I hope this helps. As always, if you have any questions/concerns, don't hesitate to contact us.

  6. jason2

    jason2 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 243

    Thanks for the feedback from everybody. I picked up the clutch yesterday. It was $180 plus shipping and tax. Haven't installed it yet. Going to run the original until it fails completely.

    Jannan, my Lazer has only 150 hours on it, most of them with doubles.

    Bill, haven't tried adjusting it. But it worked fine for most of it's life so I believe it's simply worn out.

    I think the main problem is operator error. For a long time I would engage the blades at full throttle and shut them down at full throttle. I know now that this is a killer for the clutch. I believe the new clutch will live a long life now that I'm better educated on how to correctly use the clutch.

    Lenny, thanks for your quick response. It is nice to see you and your company's attention to customer service. Also you stated to torque the bolt to 50-60 ft/in. Just wondering if it is indeed ft/in. which seems awful loose or ft/lbs? If it is ft/in. That explains the need for the loctite I guess.

    So far I've been extremely happy with my Lazer, one thing I hope to change in the future is swapping the 18 Command for a 24 Honda. Running doubles in thick, tall grass bogs down the 18 considerably.
  7. thelawnguy

    thelawnguy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,412

    "I think the main problem is operator error. For a long time I would engage the blades at full throttle and shut them down at full throttle"

    Ive got 1500 hours on the original clutch doing it this way (small lawns mostly) so I dont think that is a big factor in short clutch life.
  8. jannan

    jannan LawnSite Member
    Posts: 40

    Jason2: You might want to reconsider using the old clutch till it craps. I ran a post earlier this year explaining why. Basically it stated that you run a chance of burning up your alternater or worse due to the current draw caused by the excessive air gap on your clutch. I was warned of this by a mechanic who seemed to be very knowledgeable on the subject. Anyway, he convinced me & I changed the clutch.
  9. EJK2352

    EJK2352 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,150

    Lenny from Exmark,
    Is 50-60 in.-lbs the correct torque for the electric clutch??? Isn't it more like 50-60 ft.-lbs???:) ;) :) ED
  10. eXmark

    eXmark Manufacturer / Sponsor
    Posts: 4,258


    Sorry about that, you're right it should be torqued to 50 ft.lbs. Believe me, I'm sure I won't hear the end of this from the marketing guys for some time!

    Apparently I didn't read your original post close enough, I just noticed that you stated you only have 150 hours on the machine. What type of symptoms are you experiencing? Even under some extreme conditions, this is pretty low hours for the clutch to fail.
    Email us at service@exmark.com and we'll look into this a little further.


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