Electrical Problem on Toro WB

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by msryan, Jun 15, 2008.

  1. msryan

    msryan LawnSite Member
    Posts: 72

    I have a Toro 44" WB Model 30192. I keep blowing the fuse for the PTO. Once it blows I can only get about five more minutes on the next fuse then it blows as soon as I turn on the blades. They don't even engage before it blows. I replaced the PTO Clutch at the begining of the year. I also replaced the Delay Module, relay, and PTO switch. Once it sits for a couple hours I can get it to work agian but it seems that when it heats up this happens. Has anyone had this type of problem? I put a bigger fuse in and eventually it blew the other fuse that runs the motor. Is my next step to replace the wiring harness?

    Thanks,
    Matt
     
  2. sjessen

    sjessen LawnSite Gold Member
    Male, from Knoxville, Tn
    Posts: 3,494

    Have you checked the gap on the clutch? If it is too wide it will cause it to blow fuses.
     
  3. S DIAMOND

    S DIAMOND LawnSite Member
    from South
    Posts: 108

    Matt, is this an OEM replacement clutch (new or used) or an aftermarket replacement?

    Did you burnish the clutch when you replaced it?

    A blown fuse is a symptom of the problem (short.) Replacing the original fuse with a larger fuse, will only guarantee to damage something else down or up steam, where ever the short is, (by letting the smoke out). :)

    Test the resistance of the electrical clutch: Unplug the connection and test the resistance of the clutch field (windings) with a VOM. Place your probes across both terminals for the test. Set meter to resistance, and see if it’s within specification.

    Reading should be around, 2.8 - 3.2 ohms across the terminals. Don’t forget to zero the meter / calculate the test leads resistance.

    Check for continuity by placing one probe to a single terminal, and the other to a good ground on the chassis. Do the same for the other tab. You should not get continuity for either reading.

    You can check the Pto by placing a 12V DC source to the terminals to see if it will kick over, but it would be best if you had a in-line circuit breaker to make sure it will not over draw.

    The further the gap, the larger the current draw can be. Using a feeler gauge(s) check the armature air gap. (0.012-0.024")

    Eliminate the "new" PTO, so you can focus on the harness (bad diode) or pinched wire, etc.

    These are some things to test, even though you don't mind buying every part that's connected to the PTO. :) Good Luck.
     

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