enclosed trailer size for spraying

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by djagusch, Jan 22, 2013.

  1. djagusch

    djagusch LawnSite Platinum Member
    from MN
    Posts: 4,202

    Pretty straight forward. If you are using a zspray and want a dedicated enclosed trailer what size would you get? Set up to just hook it up the truck and go.

    In my mind the z spray needs 5 ft placed sideways in the back, 200 gal watertank above the axles another 5 ft, then 5 ft for a pallet of fert in front with a side door, add a front wedge to hold jugs and supplies. So a 16ft trailer with a 2/3ft wedge in front, 4ft side door and maybe a side service door.

    Pros to the smaller length is its easier to tow around, con compared to a 20ft trailer would be less placement options of materials.

    Any input/experience on what worked for you?
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  2. Cadzilla

    Cadzilla LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 900

    Decide what size "you need" then add 30% and get that. Rhino line the floors and up the walls 12 inches or you'll be sorry. Trust me.

    I also highly suggest putting your storage tank in your truck. Not in your trailer.
     
  3. kbrashears

    kbrashears LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 760

    I agree with Cadzilla. What are you going to when your nurse tank is empty and all your weight is in the back of the trailer? That's a problem. I'd park the Z on the axels, slap a tall 150 gal nurse tank just forward of the axel and leave room for a pallet in the front. Need a 48 inch service door.

    I have a plan for an enclosed trailer. It's my next purchase.
     
  4. Cadzilla

    Cadzilla LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 900

    Mounting the max towards the back isn't a bad idea. He will have fert towards the front to offset and it doesn't take a lot to offset the max weight bias towards the rear. The way he has it planned is ok, but do not be caught without weight up front.

    If you don't have weight up front you'll be all over the road. Sway bars help if you're close.

    I just don't like the idea of storage tanks in the trailer....I dunno.

    the thing about these trailers is the weight changes pretty quick and weight distribution becomes a concern but nothing major.
     
  5. djagusch

    djagusch LawnSite Platinum Member
    from MN
    Posts: 4,202

    The reason for the tank in the trailer is I don't have a dedicated truck just for spraying. I have 4 trucks and a irrigation van also.

    The van due to being dedicated can be out 7 days a week or 2 days a week based on service calls and install load. Since it carries inventory its a necessary evil to have it sit at times. This is what I I'm trying to stay away from.

    Of my 4 trucks 2 our considered plow trucks (01 and 02 chev 2500hds) in decent shape but are not as clean as I would like for our image. The the other 2 our lawn and plow trucks. 1 is mowing 5 days a week and the other is approximately 3 days a week depending on the work load. Both are clean looking (09 and 05 chevs).

    So my plan for the spray trailer was to take the 09 or 05 truck if possible and resort to the 02 if needed. Just because of image and a slight fuel savings. If switching doesn't work ill need to bite the bullet and get the 02 cleaned up'd.

    Anyways let's get back to the stand alone trailer. What length would work best?
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  6. kbrashears

    kbrashears LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 760

    Precisely why you have to plan for your machine to always be over the axels. When you run out of fert and or liquid, you've got a problem on your hands.
     
  7. Cadzilla

    Cadzilla LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 900

    Which is where mine is. You'll get no argument from me there. Thing is theres wasted space behind the machine, and he is trying to take advantage of all space limiting the size of the trailer.

    Moral of the story is I have a 16 foot enclosed Pace with the 3+ foot V-Nose just like you mentioned above. I carry a Z-Max, and a pallet of fert, and miscellaneous items on the wall and if I had any less space I would be disappointed in my buying decision.

    Also.....don't get a 7 foot wide trailer. They are 8.5 wide anyhow with the fenders and wheels so get the 8.5 inside width and I recommend nothing less than 20 feet in length overall.
     
  8. Laner

    Laner LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 323

    I am planning a similar trailer right now. I don't use a Z, but have PG Mag with plans to switch to a T3000 eventually. My trailer is looking to be a 7x16 with the rough layout that I have now. The side door will be a walk-in style to load fert and stock chem in the v-nose section. The 200 gal tank will be slightly forward of the center of the front axle, with another 45 gal fresh water tank directly behind that. The PG will go in the back, offset to one side and the push spreader will go beside that, with some extra room for additional fert if needed. The hose reel will slide forward to the walk-in door opening to allow me to still drag hosewhen needed. This setup is similar to my open trailer, but shifted slightly forward to provide more tongue weight. Let me know your thoughts on this setup. Any one have pics of thier enclosed spray trailer they would like to share?
     
  9. grassmasterswilson

    grassmasterswilson LawnSite Platinum Member
    from nc
    Posts: 4,513

    I'm on the lookout for a trailer also. What brands and models are you guys finding that work best? The ability to load a pallet through the side doors would be ideal....even though I don't have a forklift. The wide door would allow my to load a pallet at the dealer and maybe not have to store it on site at my shop. My dealer is 10 minutes away so dropping by to pick one up isn't a problem.

    I would build some shelves in the v nose for chemicals etc.
     
  10. jc1

    jc1 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,568

    A more balanced idea may be a side ramp in the front for the machine. Pallet of fert directly over axles and 200 gallon tank in truck. Speaking from experience you don't ever want to be in a situation that the back of truck or tounge is lighter then the rear of the trailer. If the trailer weight is disproportionate past the axles it ends up being very unstable.
     

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