Exmark uneven cuts

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by peewee, May 23, 2002.

  1. peewee

    peewee LawnSite Member
    Posts: 43

    I just purchased a 60"Lazer Z. Last year I used a toro 44 w/b. What I'm running into is uneven grass where I turn corners. I guess the outside edge of the deck sinks down as I turn and the inside edge lifts up. I had 2 complaints so far and I pretty bummed since I wasn't expecting any cut issues (never had any with the toro). Anyway, is this normal?
     
  2. Runner

    Runner LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,494

    Common "problem" with brand new Lazers. No problem. Simply lower your right front anti scalp caster to the second from the lowest notch. (Notice it's the right side that's scalping around right turns, not the left around left turns.) Also, you probably want to lower all the other caster a notch or two as well. I think you'll be pleased by this. Oh, and Congratulations!:cool:
     
  3. Check your tire pressure!!!!!!!!!
     
  4. peewee

    peewee LawnSite Member
    Posts: 43

    Thanks for the tips. I am on it now.
     
  5. TLS

    TLS LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 7,937

    What was it?

    I have my deck wheels in the "second hole from bottom" position, and I cut between 3-1/4" and 3-3/4". I probably could go to the bottom hole, but there is this ONE lawn that gets 3" so I match her neighbors lawn. For that one I'd be a little low. Plus I dont like them dragging all the time around corners.

    13PSI all the way around on tires. Get a good 0-15PSI analog gauge. You cant trust the 0-100 ones on such low pressures.
     
  6. wwjam

    wwjam LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Posts: 10

    Another thing to check is the tension in the chains. All four should be equal. I noticed on my new Lazer that two diagonal chains (front left and rear right) were supporting most of the weight while the third chain was somewhat loose and the fourth chain very loose. Therefore when you turn, the deck pivots about the two tight chains and produces the uneven cut.

    First, follow the manual for leveling with this modification. Remove all anti-scalp wheels, lower the deck to 1.5" and place a 3/4" block under one of the front and both rear brackets for the anti-scalp wheels. Rotate the left and right mower blades so that they are parallel with the long axis of the mower. Loosen the nuts to release the tension in the lift assist linkage springs. Make sure there is no tension in the front chains. Loosen rear lock nuts then adjust the rear nuts and tighten chains at rear. Remove rear blocks. Leave front block in place. Level the deck at the rear (left to right) by measuring from the bottom of the rear tip of the blade to the floor with a flat surface. A telescope micrometer works best for this measurement. If using a ruler, try to be as accurate as you can. Write down your measurements for the left and right rear. Tighten rear nuts and lock nuts. Remove front block and level the front (bottom of front tips to the same flat floor surface) to obtain a less than 1/4" rake by loosening the jam nut on the linkage bar and turning the front nuts on the front pivot arm. make sure the left front to left rear measurements are within 1/4", within 1/8" is ideal. Do the same for the right side. Then check the chain tension by pushing on them sideways at the midpoint. They should all have the same amount of deflection for a given force. Tweak the tension by turning the appropriate front nut on the linkage arm. Tighten jam nuts and spring tension nuts. Recheck chain tension. This will ensure that the weight of deck is supported equally at all four points and prevent any shifting.

    There will be a slight difference between the right side and left side rake but this is normal when accounting for tolerances of the blade flatness, deck flatness, spindle positions, etc.

    Finally, make sure that the anti-scalp wheels aren't touching the ground and rolling all the time. They should be high enough to prevent scalping when you hit a high point, but not rolling constantly. I go up one hole where the manual suggests for a given cut height.

    Also as suggested previously, check the tire pressure for 13 psi in all four tires

    This should eliminate the problem.

    Good luck!

    wwjam
     
  7. TLS

    TLS LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 7,937

    wwjam,

    WOW, watch out Exmark this is your MAN! That was an excellet step by step walkthrough of proper deck leveling!

    One thing that I have done is lessen the spring tension on the deck to allow the deck to hand "heavier" on the mower frame. This prevents bouncing, and with the foot lift, you really dont need the spring tension as much.
     
  8. wwjam

    wwjam LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Posts: 10

    Good tip Thomas!

    I noticed my deck is bouncing a little. I'll have to back off my spring compression.

    Thanks

    wwjam
     
  9. 65hoss

    65hoss LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,360

    Scalping in the turns is due to the anti-scalps not being set properly. Check the owners manual and it tells you which setting to put the wheels in based on your normal cutting height.


    When I got my LHP I was having the same problem. Our old friend EricElm helped me to correct this problem.
     

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