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Faucet on mainline? Ya or Na

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by LawnMedic904, Dec 3, 2007.

  1. LawnMedic904

    LawnMedic904 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 14

    Need some advise.
    I have a HO that wants me to install a frost-free faucet on the mainline that we are extending to expand his current system. We are going to put a 2 zone / 8 head expansion around a play area behind his property that we just finished installing a metal fence around. He has a 3/4 poly system in place, and the meter is about 200' away with about 15' elevation between the meter and new zone. Now typically I would never ever consider this, but with the type of ground we are dealing with and the distance to run an independent service line just for a faucet has given me pause. What are your thoughts? Remember, i'm still a rookie would like any advice.

    we are going to remove the gravel and place sod around the perimeter of the wall. Sorry this is the only pic I have.

  2. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,308

    I don't see any problem. If you need to protect from freezing and don't blow out your systems, allow for the riser to be drained to a point below ground.
  3. Wouldn't pass inspection if that was done here and the inspector knew about it. Having said that I see it done all the time. might want to check code if you are squeamish about it. My 2cents.
  4. Flow Control

    Flow Control LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,267

    Why would it not pass inspection if it were pass the backflow.
  5. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,308

    Same question, or if it had a VB on the hose bib?
  6. I'll ask my buddy who installs. He explained it to me once. I remember it being valid.
  7. jimmyburg

    jimmyburg LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 701

    you would have to remove the double check and install a RPZ (high hazard), because a second sourse of cross-connection! from my inspection days. its would be like using lake or creek water for your irrigation system and you were also using city water, we would require a RPZ at the meter, because of second sourse of water. i am refering to USC plumbing codes.
  8. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,670

    Interesting problem, if you want to combine all the ways that code officials might look at it. On a farm, any code official trying to tell the owner they can't have yard hydrants is likely to be invited to FOAD. How this translates to a residence, I don't know. If you do have toxic-rated backflow in place, anything downstream of it is immaterial, according to officials that don't want to be bothered by trivialities.

    Technically speaking, the best install of a yard hydrant is with heavy NSF poly below the frost line, with a self-draining hydrant to feed the hose. On an existing system, you can dumb it down a bit, but still keeping the NSF poly (if you're in a poly-pipe system)
  9. irrig8r

    irrig8r LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,535

    I installed two on a small (5 drip zones) install job I was doing yesterday. Both are after the RPP and uphill from it.

    BTW, what does RPZ stand for? RPP = Reduced Pressure Principle device, and that's the way I learned it back when I got a backflow certificate. Have they changed the name? Or is it a different animal?

    One more thing, has anyone tried this newer model from Zurn-Wilkins? It's compact and removable in about 5 seconds to prevent freezing.

    Attached Files:

  10. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,670

    RPZ = Reduced Pressure Zone (a 'contraction' of the more formal Reduced Pressure Principle Backflow Prevention Assembly)

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