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Fert and weed on Centipede this late?

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by tdab, Jun 16, 2008.

  1. tdab

    tdab LawnSite Member
    Posts: 2

    Is it a bad idea to weed and feed centipede grass right now? Another determining factor is that this is new grass (sod) that I laid about 8 weeks ago. The growth has been great and it is on a sprinkler system. All of the seams are gone and I have cut it 3 times.

    Should I wait until the fall to get these weeds? It is also full of nutsedge.

    Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide.

  2. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,194

    New sod likes some fertilize. A mix of micro-nutrients and soluble fertilize will do wonders for the grass. How much sod do you have? Have you ever sprayed a lawn with liquid fertilize? NEVER put a granular fertilize with potassium cloride (Third number on the bag) Clorine is toxic to centipede. If liquids are not possible, choose that 14-2-14 from Lesco. Potash is derived from Sulfer. For the nutsedge, go to Lowes and buy that $25 bottle of IMAGE that hooks to a lawn hose and follow directions to the letter--to the letter. This stuff works well for a homeowner but warn you to take it easy and water it into soil in a day or so. You will need to do another application in 14days to 3 weeks. That's strange; that new sod would have nutsedge in it.
    Do not use that Weed and Feed combo from SCO$$--Nitrogen level is too high and will burn grass.
  3. tdab

    tdab LawnSite Member
    Posts: 2

    The area is about a 55' x 55' square. I have never used liquid fert. I did buy the IMAGE with the sprayer, but didn't want to use it on the new grass without asking first. The reason I have nutsedge is because I tilled the area big time before I put down the sod. For some reason that invigorates nutsedge growth....At least it does around here:laugh: The nutsedge is crazy...It will penetrate through weed guard like the guard isn't even there. I guess that is because the tip of the growth is so fine?

  4. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,194

    All of the sedges have nodules (Nutlets) on the roots. That's where the big growth originates. It would be better to get that sod growing vigriously before attempting eliminate the sedge. Turf that is healthy will withstand chemicals to control weeds. Unhealthy turf will thin and promote weed growth. Keep that nutsedge mowed before it can seed it self, pick up clippingsm and watch your watering practices. Actually overwatering will promote the sedge. After grass is growing well (after mowing it begins to grow quickly and cannot be pulled from ground), start IMAGE. That image is not the real stuff but does work. Keep after it to the point of hand pulling when you have time. Give your kids a DQ treat for pulling a 5-gallon bucket. Take your wife to breakfast for doing the same. Of course I'm kidding but hand pulling does work. On the liquid fertilizer. You could buy a
    Backpack with a floodjet nozzle from TeeJet, practice till you're sick on spraying 1-gallon of water on dry pavement per 1000sq. ft. After that buy yourself some micro-nutrients from Lesco and hit that lwhole lawn once a month. You could then buy a good soluble fertilize like 23-0-23 from Lesco and fertilize it one time a month putting down 1/4lb Nitrogen/M. This is if you have the time. I know it's a lot of work,or you could get one of the professionals around you to do it for about $100/month. These are not people like TG or CL as they can't be trusted. I think they spray water on some of the lawns that I've seen. I know it might be expensive but in the long run you can rest assured that it is being done well.
    I could stopo by on my way to Tennessee and check it for you--I couldn't or wouldn't have time or do an application .
    Anyway, your off to a good start, but do watch that over watering. Something like 1" of water two (2) times a week is enough. Water in the morning to avoid heat stroke and fungas.

  5. nmurph

    nmurph LawnSite Senior Member
    from ga
    Posts: 668

    actually UGA recommends 1#N/1K sf.

    Improving Coverage -- The rate of centipede coverage from seeding, sprigging or plugging can be increased by proper fertilization. After new growth is seen, apply a complete fertilizer that is low in phosphorus at the rate of 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. This fertilizer application can be repeated every four weeks. However, be sure not to apply more than 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet or to fertilize later than eight weeks before the normal first killing frost date. Of course, proper mowing and irrigation must be continued during this "grow-in" period. Certain post-emergence herbicides such as atrazine and sethoxydim (Vantage) may be used during the year of establishment to control grass and broadleaf weeds.

    the website is:


    the main thing to remember with centipede is to avoid to much nitrogen once the grass is established.

    the sethoxydim mentioned above is excellent for removing bahia and bermuda from centipede. however, it does not kill nut grass.
    be careful with atrazine in the summer heat....you can damage your grass.

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