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Fertilize this lawn now or wait till Fall?

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by boxoffire, Feb 20, 2006.

  1. boxoffire

    boxoffire LawnSite Member
    Posts: 169

    I have this customer with some type of cool season grass (at least it stays mostly green in winter so I assume it is) and I've read that they can be fertilized (fescue that is) in February. Also in Sep and Nov. Well he wants to put out seed in the fall so was wondering if fertlizer application would be recommended now or then or both maybe. If my pics posted, you can see he may need some seed in spring too if it's worth it. I just did a soil test and have results stating a 15-0-14 or EQUIV per 1000 sq. ft type fertilizer is recommended. He's hoping the lawn will thicken up some this spring on it's own in his backyard where it's sparse and shaded moreso. I could use some work right now but didn't want to recommend a fertilizer application unless it will benefit the yard for the spring. Thanks for the help/advice in advance.

    Adam

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  2. sheshovel

    sheshovel LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,112

    This guy looks like he has some problems other than needing a fert application.In the 1st pick I see compaction and drainage problems in the second pic could very well be a grub or cinch bug problem.The other guys on here will help diagnose it also.
     
  3. indyturf

    indyturf LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Indy
    Posts: 1,877

    If he is not going to reseed until fall I would wait to fertilize then. make sure he plans to do it early sept. so the grass has plenty of time to germinate and get rooted in good before the temps drop in the fall. I also would do a higher nitrogen fertilizer application about a month after the seed germinates.
     
  4. lawnspecialties

    lawnspecialties LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,513

    Some very good replies here. Actually down here in NC, you can reseed all the way until mid October. That can flex a little depending on the rainfall amounts during that time period.

    I'd go ahead and apply the fertilizer for now. Make the best with what you have. The fertilizer will be all gone by June anyway. With all those leaves, I'm curious what your pH levels were. Looks like a good lime application would benefit. Good Luck
     
  5. sheshovel

    sheshovel LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,112

    bump I would like to hear some other evaluations on this lawn please
     
  6. boxoffire

    boxoffire LawnSite Member
    Posts: 169

    Thanks for the suggestions. Lawnspecialties, here is an attached adobe of his soil test report. Hope it posts. If not, the pH listed on report is 6.9 and Lime listed as "0" or none needed I assume. Does this appear to be some type of fescue grass?
     

    Attached Files:

  7. K&L Landscaping

    K&L Landscaping LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 657

    Look's to me like the back yard is screaming to be aerified! I would really try to sell him on the aerification in the back in March and again in Sept. If the ph is 6.9 you do NOT need lime, fescue grows best between 6.3 and 6.6 ph. This guy will have to understand that this will probably take a while for his lawn to come around. The front lawn looks like about any other lawn around here in the winter to me.
     
  8. lilmarvin4064

    lilmarvin4064 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 757

    I don't see how you could recognize insect damage from those pictures. I definitely see some dormant bermuda mixed with some fescue in the second picture. Yeah, aerate this spring. If you are planning to do any spring seeding as well do it around 3rd week in March; but you'll probably have to do it again in the fall for best results. Go get some 18-0-18 and you'll be set. Are you licensed for pesticides? :weightlifter:
     
  9. K&L Landscaping

    K&L Landscaping LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 657

    He doesn't have to be licensed in NC to aerify and spread FERT.
     
  10. lawnspecialties

    lawnspecialties LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,513

    K&L is right on the money. With a 6.9, you'll probably be fine on pH for a couple of years. In the pictures, it appears the lawn sinks a little in that area. If that ground is indeed compacted, continuously standing water is not good. Aerate it for now. Come fall, you might even just till it up. Watch out for that tree's roots.
     

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