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Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by NEWGUYRI, Nov 20, 2008.
There are soil tests for available nitrogen.
i agree with a past post soil samples are a tool.
to be used when first taking a site on as a customer and also when problems that can't be determined with normal observance. normally lawns are pretty similar in areas. you will know after treating them for a time which need what and when, some might have alot of trees which might affect ph and you know that a lime app will cure the prob without a soil sample etc...
down here 1 part of the county is sandy while another is a mix of sand and clay and yet another all clay. not to mention what if any fill was brought in for the final grade of the project.
but generally you use a base program with some add on services
I apply very little P and K in my program, because it isn't needed in this area, just as lime isn't usually needed either.
I run a N program and that is about it. 19-0-6 in spring, 30-0-10 in spring and fall and 32-3-5 in late fall. Apply 3-4 lbs of N a year for the most part depending on the turf, moisture and other factors.
Nitrogen is VERY mobile and can volatilize or denitrify quickly!
There are a few new soil tests avialable that are very accurate but they are also expensive.
If you pull a soil sample and get a N test...GUARANTEE it is different from when you pulled the sample.
Also, soil tests are only as good as the sample you pull.
I have pulled soil samples randomly from a field and found that the next set you pull from the same field can be a lot different. There are just so many variables.
Also to throw in another little thing is pull a set of samples and send to two different labs!
I am a big believer of finding a good lab you can trust and stick with them!
Do you find that drying soil samples right after plugging helps to avoid volatization, denitrification, and microbe utilization? The local extension guys say it's fairly accurate if you do?
I to dont believe soil test are that important I have done them and did all the wright things and to me it didnt make that big a difference to me you cant beat good top soil and some N and the right seed. you can go threw a lot of BS to do something different for every yard there all Different.
I know farmers that do tissue samples so they can foyer feed micros at the right times of the year to get the most out of there crop
my 2 cents
Pulling tissue samples is probably the best way IMO in regards to foliar apps!
I don't but again we have very few issues here where I live. Usually if you see defeciencies they are only in pockets and it is due to tight soils or poor soils.
There are guys in our area that do a lot of foliar feeding...but I question their efforts as I am not sure if they recover their cost after product and application.
Many people think that if you apply this or apply that...it will make a big differnce, but unless the plant is defecient it really doesn't help!
Getting back to what you guys are talking about...I get a kick out of the people on here that say they treat every lawn different!
What a waste of time and effort!
Most lawns only need N, and maybe a little P, K and lime from time to time depending on the area.
I treat most of my lawns the same really! Some get more N then others...but for the most part I have a really simple program!
Makes me laugh becasue so many people make treating lawns complicated and acts like it's brain surgery~!
KEEP IT SIMPLE!
I agree in lawns keep; it simple
I am not a farmer just have pastures but the people i know do increase there yields from the program they used before buy doing this and get increases every year i think there is a difference between trying to add another row to a ear of corn than making grass grow if we were trying to add more seed heads to our grass it might be different
just what i think
I could not agree with Rodney more. I have pulled enough soil samples in my area and have never seen a lack of P or K. I attended a seminar winter put on by the university, the professor went through the needs of the plant vs the typical soils we have and said it boils down to nitrogen. In rare cases and in sandy soils adding a little P or K might be needed, but he has seen little of that. As far as PH in our area it runs from 7 to 8.2 and the lawns look fine. My lawn ranges from 7.8 to 8.1. I aerate every year, give it 3 lbs of nitrogen at the proper time, add very little P or K, cut it at 3.5 inches, water when necessary, and it looks just fine. We are not dealing with golf courses so I am with Rodney, this is not brain surgery, keep it simple. Soil samples are just an added expense that are usually not necessary, IMHO.
FYI, there is more to landscapes than turf. There is also more than one type of turf. I could go on here, but you know Rod, I would expect more from an intelligent guy like yourself.
That is right. Plant only regionally appropriate plants and get rid of all turf. How much simpler can it be?