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FEw install questions on natural stack wall

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by Guthrie&Co, Jan 5, 2006.

  1. Guthrie&Co

    Guthrie&Co LawnSite Senior Member
    from nc
    Posts: 784

    I have a install to do and the job calls for a small natural stack wall, with the thin natural stone. i have done belgard walls before but never one like this. Bigest question is how do you install this type of wall? the wall is around 20 feet long and exposed height if around 1.5 feet. what type of footing is required, mortar, etc etc. what should the price range for something like this go for? thanks in advance
  2. bigviclbi

    bigviclbi LawnSite Senior Member
    from nj
    Posts: 894

    Up here one pallet of Pennsylvania field stone will do a wall 1' high by 25' long. I never lay a base down if its just a raised garden, if its a retaining wall into a hill you should put some crushed base down. You can easily do it in a day with two guys. When you stack it make sure to concentrate on the outer side of the wall looking nice, the inside can be jagged as all hell and no one will notice. We usually throw up a string, excavate, tamp the soil and then stack the suckers.
  3. sheshovel

    sheshovel LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,112

    Well you need at least a 4"deep compacted 1/4" crushed base a little wider
    than the actual finish width of the wall .
    then make sure to you set your first (depending on the thickness of the stone your useing)several courses below ground level and make the wall wider at the bottom and then work it up to the width you want to finish at the top kinda like the shape of a hedge wider at the bottom and narrower at the top.
    Use your bigger stones in the base course,and then as your building use them througout the wall as tie in stones.You don't need to mortar or concrete or cement for your base.
  4. Guthrie&Co

    Guthrie&Co LawnSite Senior Member
    from nc
    Posts: 784

    what type of mortar is needed for the exposed wall. how do you prevent cracking in the mortar from freeze and thaw
  5. sheshovel

    sheshovel LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,112

    We must not be talking about the same thing.if you are talking about a dry hand stacked wall..you need no mortar the wall looks like stacked rock,and that is what is exposed.That is what you see stacked rock,not with a mortar face
  6. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    Gotta listen up to her. Anyone who can have a loooooonng thread develop over her avatar can't be wrong. :)
  7. Guthrie&Co

    Guthrie&Co LawnSite Senior Member
    from nc
    Posts: 784

    See i havent dealt with much natural stone. only belgard block. so my product knowledge isnt that great when it comes to dealing with new things. i will make a trip to my supplier today to check it out.
  8. cedarcroft

    cedarcroft LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 442

    I use a base of RCA and tamp it to make leveling the first course eassier and to avoid any type of settling might occur. than you start like a puzzle. lay it out on the base and keep the nicer, straighter peices up front. once a nice level base is laid out put the rest together and take your time to make sure there are no wobbly peices. keep it a little wider at the base. also, as you go keep aside nice flat and wide peices for the top and more visible areas. no mortar needed, just stack and go. But take your time to make sure there is some sort of order to it. nothing looks and performs worse then a stacked stone wall that is poorly built.
  9. vntgrcr

    vntgrcr LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 282

    A tip that I hope is obvious, but , stagger your joints and if it is a one sided wall, take some larger stones and run them perpendicular to the wall back into the soil being retained. These are to act as a tie in for strength. If the wall isn't that tall, this step isn't as important.

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