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Fire ant control

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by ArTurf, Mar 30, 2013.

  1. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,193

  2. grassmasterswilson

    grassmasterswilson LawnSite Platinum Member
    from nc
    Posts: 4,548

    Per my local university ... Bifen .2g held up for 60 days but by 90 plots were infested, for liquid app says closer to 1 gallon per 1000 would be best.

    Baits - Advion fast knock down and amdro slower, both equal in control

    Baits growth regulators(distance, extinguish, logic, award, etc) - longer to work but with proper application may only need 1 app per year.

    Longest control - fripinal or aloft, expensive but the longest available control.

    I'm curious what products you've used and what you offer? One time fripinal app or baits every few months per label? Bifen spray every 60-75 days?

    For those who do Bifen or baits, when do you try to time your first application .... Prior to seeing mounds or once they start popping up?
  3. Turf Dawg

    Turf Dawg LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,719

    I always get what ever generic Talstar they have. The last several times it has been this http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/bifen-it-p-226.html?sub_id=553

    I have not ever ordered from this company I was just using their link.
  4. Turf Dawg

    Turf Dawg LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,719

    Personally, Fire Ants are not something I treat for on a schedule. I do this only when the customer wants. I will suggest it to them when they have Fire Ants. On the commercial places I will tell them, "I am starting to see some Fire Ants, would you like me to go ahead and take care of them?"

    If they have irrigation Bifenthrin is my go to product. The reason I like it is because it does so much more than just get Fire Ants. As with all products the length of control varies but it has always been at least 2.5-3 months. Some places will even be 6-8 months. I really depends on the surrounding outside pressure, moisture, soil type, ect......

    Large areas or areas that cannot be watered other than rainfall I use a bait. The trick to using baits are - make sure the bait is fresh, make sure it is going to be dry for a few days, make sure the ants are out looking for food [I like to use cheese puffs for this], make sure to use a specified spreader that you only use for bait. You DO NOT want to use your fert/herbicide spreader for this because the residue and smell will make the bait unattractive to the workers.

    A couple of the reasons I do not use Topchoice/Fipronil anymore are---

    Profit, you can only use this once per year and it is expensive per sq ft compared to the other products.

    Length of control, This varies a great deal depending on soil type as well as rainfall or irrigation. It may last 4 months or 14 months.

    Pressure, This is not something that works overnight. If there is heavy pressure at the time of application it may take a couple of weeks to a month to clear the area. If the area outside of the treated area has a high pressure, then these will come and start building a mound before it kills them, so even though it is still working the customer might not think it is.
  5. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,193

    I noticed one is Bifen XTS and the other is BifenIT?? I see reference to its being as good as telstar pro. We drop telstar on ant hills weekly when
    we mow and this year the ants are out of control. I thought that using this liquid might be better since it would stay in place. Most of our hills are on the curb edge and the trimmer guy goes thru them then the blow guy comes so probably not much ant dust left.
  6. Turf Dawg

    Turf Dawg LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,719

    The XTS is the highly concetrated oil based product that is mainly used by the structural guys as a perimiter and crack and crevice treatment. The IT is the less concentraited water based product used more by us turf and ornimental guys.

    This is just my opinion, but unless you are doing a broadcast treatment and then drenching the mounds with the granular Talstar you are wasting your money. If you are doing only mound treaments I think you would be much better off using a bait [not applied to the mound but a few feat away].
  7. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,193

    are you saying the bifen put on mounds is no good? I know very little seems to happen when I put talstar on the mounds...they move and build a new mound. I am talking about the need to treat maybe 200 mounds on a 10 acre HOA as an example. I was thinking liquid would be better than the grandular stuff since it would stay in place.
  8. Turf Dawg

    Turf Dawg LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,719

    sent you a PM
  9. wildstarblazer

    wildstarblazer LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 984

    Bifen put on the mounds would have to be watered in to work, a lot of water. So it would probably make sense to use the liquid. If your talkin 10 acres, a bait would probably be better than trying to kill each mound and then drench any mounds left after a few weeks or so.

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