First skid sprayer

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by Above Par Lawns, Feb 18, 2014.

  1. Above Par Lawns

    Above Par Lawns LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 512

    It's set near 200 and when I pull the trigger it holds steady at 180psi. I know guys that run at 200.
     
  2. ReddensLawnCare

    ReddensLawnCare LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,652

    What kind of gun are you using
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  3. Above Par Lawns

    Above Par Lawns LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 512

    The green lesco gun with the 2 gpm yellow tip
     
  4. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,914

    Mine never got inside during rain. But it had a slight roof over the motor which kept it slightly dry. Maybe put a bucket over the motor during rain--or half a fert bag. Rain won't hurt the pump.
    Put some thought into this. I used a smaller GR252 6 GPM Hypro pump--I got 2.6 gals per thousand sqft and walked at about 1300 sqft per minute. I used 120 lbs pressure. You are using 180--how come? This causes excess pressure when you first pull the trigger--drift prone. Check for any sign of restriction on the suction side. Close the agitation flow when spraying. Make sure there are no restrictions to flow from the pump to the reel--use the largest diameter hose you can for this critical flow rate.
    The price was right--you will be happy.
     
  5. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 8,941

    A D403 with three pumping diaphragms does not have that air pressurized pulsation damper. Only the D30,D50, and D70 pumps have those. The triple digit pumps supposedly do not need them because three diaphragms pump smoother than two.
     
  6. ETM

    ETM LawnSite Senior Member
    from Georgia
    Posts: 514

    i have the same skid and it a tank. Never had a problem. I dont do anything but spray,spray and spray some more. We never change nothing till we have problems. About to rebuld the pump Im losing oil daily. I operate at 200+ before the trigger pull then its down to 20. Im going out at 3gal per 1000
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  7. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,914

    Check the hose for any signs of kinks or splices inside on the reel somewhere. That would reduce the flow and increase the friction loss as the fluid travels through the hose. Actually if you had a gauge at the end of the hose--you would probably find that at the gun--you would get 180 pounds before pulling the trigger--and about 20 pounds at the gun while spraying. Friction loss in the hose; (about 30 percent per hundred feet at high flow rates). Later, you could reduce the pressure and flow rate to 1 gal per thousand sqft--so your tank will cover twice as many sqft; change nozzles to suit lower gpm rate.

    It is important to check the oil level in the 6 to one reduction gear box on the pump. I didn't on mine, and had to buy a new pump--it takes SAE 80-90 gear lube. Fill until it runs out of the "check hole".
    You changed the air filter on the motor, right? This is a good time to add an inline fuel filter. New starter rope is good insurance; it is easier to change before it breaks.

    Does the gauge needle hold steady or does it bounce? Steady is a sign that all the valves are working. I think there would be six valves and 6 springs.

    Perhaps a bit of lube for rotation at each end of the reel would be helpful, plus a bit on the chain.
    The swivel at the end of the reel is a major wear item--it can leak after a year or two; O-rings go bad. New one is about $60.

    You did a rebuild job on the Chemlawn gun correct? Kit is about $20.

    Rust is a problem, particularly if fertilizer is used around the rig. If you have a chance, repaint the frame steel. Spray anti-rust undercoating on the lower 6 inches if possible.
    Run some steel cable over the top for safety retention in case of rollover. Anchor it to the frame underneath.
     
  8. GreenGuysLC

    GreenGuysLC LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 325

    You got a good deal. I stole one this year too. Bought an old 300 gal lesco with a d30. He has put a Briggs motor on I but it cranked and ran....I just don't see it flow water. He said it needed a pump. I really didn't know why...but he said it needed one. He only wanted 600. No brained there...bought it. Rebuilt the pump...new 300 ft 1/2 in hose...new plumbing...and a good cleaning. Rerouted the bypass line into top of tank. When I tried to pump it was making a horrible clattering...I figured pump was bad. Ordered new d30. Installed and it does the same thing. So...i have two pumps now. I set my relief on the 2 notch. Then close the agitation of till it hits 180psi. I am flowing 2.5 GPM I walk slow so I only cover 1000k a min. But explain why I can't go over 180 without the pump chattering so bad?? I know it is capable of more. Running engine full throttle....and oil in sight glass. Also...no flow through bypass unless I lift the lever...normal I assume? Lot different than the old electric pump ibonce used..lol
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  9. GreenGuysLC

    GreenGuysLC LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 325

    By the way....after parts...and new pump...I only had about 1500 in mine....already paid for itself in the last month.
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  10. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 8,941

    Make sure there are no air leaks anywhere in the suction line. That chattering is cavitation or air expanding into big bubbles inside of the pump. Cavitation is very bad in a pump. That will cause valves to self destruct and internal passages to get worn.
     

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