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First wall cont.

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by mpflood, Oct 22, 2005.

  1. mpflood

    mpflood LawnSite Member
    Posts: 91

    second half of pictures, stairs to follow Monday

    wall 017.jpg

    wall 018.jpg

    wall 019.jpg

    wall 020.jpg

    wall 021.jpg
  2. mbella

    mbella LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,284

    It looks like you're doing a fine job.

    I'm curious, what are you doing with the wet mix in the area where the steps will be installed?
  3. mpflood

    mpflood LawnSite Member
    Posts: 91

    Just building a lil platform to hold the next steps stone dust
  4. mbella

    mbella LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,284

    You shouldn't need to. Do you know about the pedestal method? Even if you don't, you should be building with base aggregate and screenings or sand.

    I just noticed in one of your other pics there is dirt directly behind the wall. Are you gioing to remove that and replace it with drainage aggregate?
  5. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    One of his earlier pics shows some vertical tubing directly behind part of the wall. Don't know if these are dry wells as there's no explanation.
  6. mpflood

    mpflood LawnSite Member
    Posts: 91

    i appreciate the feed back no dirt against wall 2ft wide 3 ft high gravel behind wall
    The tubes are for future fencing

    pedestal method i have no idea the steps were created by pouring a slab and laying the next step on a bed of dust on top of slab
  7. sheshovel

    sheshovel LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,112

    You building method looks good as does the wall.My only question is...
    .Are you sure your building a wall and not a swimming pool?
  8. GreenMonster

    GreenMonster LawnSite Silver Member
    from NH
    Posts: 2,702

    Next time, if not the pedestal method, backfill and compact behind each new step with your base aggregate. If you pour a slab, you stairs are no longer on a flexible aggregate base like the rest of your wall, and susceptible to heaving through frost. Don't forget fabric to seperate your backfill soil from clean stone.
  9. fall46

    fall46 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 141

    A couple of observations:

    A) In pic wall017.jpg I notice a downspout from what iam guessing is the neighboors house that will be directing water towards the back of the wall. I would make sure u have your 3/4 free draining rock behind the wall and fabric that will separate that from your dirt. I would also include perforated pipe @ laying directly behind the wall with a slight slope exiting to daylight. That gravel should be within 6-8'' of your cap or top of the wall and then wrapped "over"with the fabric with your topsoil or fill soil on top of that. If you dont wrap it .........all that soil leaches into your gravel making the free draining gravel useless. It appears that fabric is directly behind the wall vs between gravel and your undisturbed soil and not wrapped. Cant tell from the pictures though so I apologize if u have done it.

    B) Although the height of the wall is relatively small I would still be inclined to have @ least half of the first block buried relative to the grade unless paver's are going in and butting up against the block vs simply pushing dirt "up" against the block.. Again not clear from pictures

    C Lastly not sure what type of fence your putting up privacy chain link etc and I would like to hear from other on this. But I believe it needs be setback @ least 1' ( I have heard as much as 3' from face of the wall but that seems like overkill to me) as to avoid any additional pressure on the back of the wall. (Not that it should be doing much moving anyways) But u may not have the room as the property line may not allow any setback? Anyone else have an opinion on that?
  10. cgland

    cgland LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,929

    A typical installation of tubes for fencing requires them to have a minimum separation of 3' from the face of the wall.


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