I need some advice on a well install I have scheduled; this well is less than 1 year old and is set at 40 PSI.
This system will have two zones, zone one: 5-1804's with mp3000's and zone two: 6-1804's with mp3000's.
I have been to the Irrigation tutorials and read and re-read and completed the the work sheet for the Dry Method. The design flow comes out to 8.8 GPM.
I have calculated the friction loss for zone one, which comes out to 32.73 PSI Actual Pressure at Head. Zone one will use 5.38 GPM. No elevation change for zone one.
The well is 430' deep.
Dynamic Water Depth 300'.
5' casing.
1 1/4" service line to tank reduced to 1" to home. I want to tap in the 1" line and go from there.
Does all this sound correct/workable?
Every now and then, a well will fail to perform the way you expect. Run the water, for as long as you can, and do the 'bucket test' at whatever pressure you choose to have at the pressure tank.
Open the faucet and let the water into a bucket. This is your discharge.
By varying the flow with the faucet, you will see the dynamic pressure of the pump as you will find the pressure that the pump will be able to produce while actually discharging water. This is actually the realistic pressure you will see to the sprinklers.
Get that number, and time how long it takes to fill up a 5 gallon bucket, do some math and you have the two most important numbers:
Dynamic PSI, and Max GPM.
Try to match your zones as close as possible to the max GPM.
If the well is a year old then surley someone remembers what size-HP the pump is and how much GPM it will pump. That will give you a general idea before you did the bucket test.
One thing you didn't mention was how much water the well makes. I assume you have that covered but just checking. I'm not an irrigation expert but I know a thing or two about wells. And by the way, they sure have a lot of junk taped on that pipe.
If I were you,I would go back to jess stryker's "wet method" if you and the owner are serious about this and get a true flow and pressure check. You do not want to burn up a motor! Go exaclty by his example.I did mine this way and was dead on with the flow.You might as well if your going to have to "T" in anyway.
Hello all and thanks for the help. Just wanted to share a pic with everyone of the test we did on Saturday (I got some help from a great irrigator with LOTs of well experience!). After replacing a broken pressure gauge and performing a Wet test we determined the well will produce 8.5 GPM.
One thing you didn't mention was how much water the well makes. I assume you have that covered but just checking. I'm not an irrigation expert but I know a thing or two about wells. And by the way, they sure have a lot of junk taped on that pipe.
Yes, I know what it is. It will just make it take a little longer to but it will still get just as cold as the ambient temperature around it unless it is generating heat. No big deal, just not used much around here. Usually some kind of heat is put in the pumphouse.
In a lot of well situations, irrigators (esp. me) like to recomend raising the pressure settings on the pressure switch. In your case, I don't think that is a real good idea. 430' of head to the top of the well is going to be almost 20psi. I hope the rest of the site is somewhat flat? 1.5hp @80psi of head (60psi shut down) is going to be near the top of any 1.5hp pumps curve.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Lawn Care Forum
7M posts
202.7K members
Since 1999
A forum community dedicated to lawn care and landscaping professionals and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!