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Going to be a good year for lawn renovations!

Discussion in 'Florida Lawn Care Forum' started by Florida Gardener, Jan 9, 2014.

  1. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 8,802

    No yellowing. Especially if it is applied with chelated micronutrients and the 1/4 lb or less of N Syngenta tells you to use. I get 30 days out of it. Lawns do get really tight and thick on it. The green color is intensified as well. But I do only use it when needed. That thickening of the lawn is something I watch. Too thick and it is time for a dethatch.
     
  2. I can tell you that I will exclusively be using cutless this year on every property I can.
     
  3. fl-landscapes

    fl-landscapes LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,542

    I liked cuttless a lot. Problem was I had a lot of beds watered with netafim (sp?) and cuttless granules need to be watered in. So I was either going to spread with my vortex during or just prior to rain storms or switch to a foliar. I switched and have had good results
     
  4. Yea I have a couple places with netafim.

    I have a lot of ixora on properties that the cutless will be great for as this is always hand pruned and can get time consuming in the summer. In fact, most of my places have stuff that needs hand pruning. Stuff that I use the trimmer on is fine as I blow that stuff in the lawn and mulch it up. Plus, those hedges are too big for cutless.
     
  5. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 8,802

    Granular anything does not work with subsurface or surface drip. Drip was intended to have the fertilizers injected into the lines. Otherwise it is all high volume spray or foliars.
     
  6. fl-landscapes

    fl-landscapes LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,542

    That's what I thought until I realized if the time saved is worth it on a small scale logic says it's worth it on any scale maybe even more so on large scale. I use the atrimmec on one property with literally thousand of feet of hedges. Most are not near grass but up against buildings so they do need to be raked and barreled out.
     
  7. fl-landscapes

    fl-landscapes LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,542

    Not a big fan of drip. Can't water your inputs in and can't tell if there's a broken line or clogged holes until you see wilt or dying plants. I know it has benefits like less evaporation and less wet foliage to promote leaf spot but overall I like to see my heads pop up and spray.
     
  8. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 8,802

    I like that too. I know of plant material that just does better with overhead irrigation. Leaf spot is not going to be increased if irrigation is set for morning. My suggestion is not to irrigate within 4 hours of sunset. That allows time to dry. It is humid enough here, that water during the day time is not lost.
     
  9. fl-landscapes

    fl-landscapes LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,542

    The other problem with drip is, especially in sandy soil where water tends to go straight down, you need to have the line run very close to the root ball of the plant when installed. Over time the roots grow and so does the plant often entangling and bending or tearing the netafim. Alright gents been a long day so I will catch you later.
     
  10. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 8,802

    Bigger plantings are very much worth growth regulation. In my town, landscape people pay to dispose of cuttings by weight. Smaller ones are still worth it because of the time savings. People do not see that their small lot with a bazillion shrubs takes time to trim.
     

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