grass seed - what to get

Discussion in 'Homeowner Assistance Forum' started by CTD_Crazed, Apr 7, 2013.

  1. Snyder's Lawn Inc

    Snyder's Lawn Inc LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,541

    Dang I been doing it wrong for 30+ years and been told wrong

    Spring time I always used a 20-0-5 a high N
    fall time used a 6-24-24 low N

    Smallaxe tell me why you put Nitrogen down in fall and not in the spring time. I want to hear this.

    I been doing this one lawn that is total shade for 5 years ph calls for N and Soil test calls for N So you saying that's wrong. I'm killing it has you say.
    If I don't put (N) down it wont grow and will not live with out N.

    5 years ago this lawn was so bare. There was more dirt vs grass. So I redone the lawn sowed KBG and CRF

    To keep it living I have to feed it spring and summer not as much in the fall.
    If not its going look like is did bare . The lawn is only 10 yrs old The first 2 yrs was a nice lawn after that went down hill to where I came in and fix it.

    I hope my customers don't read your statement. I'll be out of a job.Think a lot other guys would be to.
     
  2. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,308

    I suppose insufficient light has nothing to do with it ..... heh?
     
  3. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,308

    I think you have been doing it wrong. Why do people think that doing something for "x" years, by default, makes it right even when it is wrong?

    Curious how one determines a need for nitrogen from pH? Soil lab tested N (typically nitrate) is at best a snapshot in time, and unless the sample is handled appropriately, not all that reliable. Nitrates are best tested in the field.

    A more reliable lab test would be total N and potential N from OM (ENR), which will give you a good idea of what is potentially available over the short and long term growing season.

    The most reliable lab test for N would be both a soil and tissue test.
     
  4. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    This article is NOT talking about Forest Lawn , but rather it is discussing the normal sun lawns and the LIFECYCLE of grasses that face a frozen winter...

    http://turfdisease.osu.edu/turf-disease-updates/benefits-late-fall-fertilization

    This article has its reference points and as I told another member here, when the agriculture dept was putting out grass pasture/hayfield information,,, they went the extra step to explain WHY it happens that you don't fertilize until the first crop is off...
    I remember thinking that it was most remarkable...

    Now picking out a few phrases out of context does not qualify as reading/studying the information, so if you're going to critisize the article, plz do it IN CONTEXT... :)
     
  5. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    Snyder, in relation to N for grass to grow, statement...(in the SHADE) the issue is, How Infertile Is your Soil Anyways...

    Shade lawns are not going to gobble up .75 lbs of N/k per month... that is for sunny well watered lawns with great structure and moisture/air ratio... forcing quick top growth in the woods does little to help establish the root systems, in fact in many cases forcing quick top growth destroys good root systems...

    I have one lawn that just came back this Spring as sod quality turf and this section gets no direct sunlight at any time during the growing season... even the extension offices are recognizing that 1/2 the N and half the water, is best for shade lawns...

    I'm glad you're having some measure of success with your shade lawns, but by all means, stop moving forward anytime that you believe you've arrived to the ultimate,,, in wisdom and understanding... I'm glad that I didn't stop learning about lawns after 30 years... :)
     
  6. CTD_Crazed

    CTD_Crazed LawnSite Member
    Posts: 59

    ohhh boy i better put my chest waders on.......its gettin deep in here now!!
     
  7. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    People will always do what they want... :)
     
  8. CTD_Crazed

    CTD_Crazed LawnSite Member
    Posts: 59

    so i did some more seeding work yesterday on back yard, ended up trying the JD LT160 with the front mount dethatcher, found out it actually worked really well for breaking up the top probably 1/2" of soil. Added probably 40 or 50 lbs of weight on the dethatcher, and it dug a lot better, maybe 1/2" to 3/4" deep. Backdragging didnt work so well when trying to re loosen what the tractor compacted, but it worked fairly well.

    Ended up going over entire back yard a solid 4 or 5 times and then threw down a good 12-15 lbs of a 20 lb bag of grass seed, finished with a garden rake and a garden weasel burying the seed. Heres a couple pictures of me using the dethatcher on dirt.

    IMG-20130511-00255.jpg

    IMG-20130511-00256.jpg
     
  9. CTD_Crazed

    CTD_Crazed LawnSite Member
    Posts: 59

    can anyone tell me what my watering frequency should be on newly planted grass seed (pre emerged) as well as emerged young grass? I want to make sure im not under or over watering it and would like to know how MUCH water i should use when watering.
     
  10. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    Don't let the water 'puddle' and don't let the surface get 'dusty'... Not the end of the world if it happens but to have a "SCHEDULE" is impossible... this week 'may' require daily watering whereas last week required none, for example... go out and look at it to makethe determination...
     

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