Groud Ivy Removal Help

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by Mo Green, Oct 5, 2004.

  1. Mo Green

    Mo Green LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,487

    I'm preparing a bid for a customer who wants a total back yard rennovation.
    She has two large beds in the yard that are app. 10' x 30'. She wants both of them edged and cleaned out. One is covered with ivy. What is the best way to remove this ivy? Is it easy to remove? What should I charge to remove ivy and various other large overgrown weeds, and edge the beds?

    I guess my main question is pertaining to the removal of the ivy.
     
  2. NNJLandman

    NNJLandman LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,306

    I'm going to guess that it might be pakasandra or maybe old english ivy since thats what I see in most beds or yards. Usually the ivy isn't to to hard to pull out you will have to work at it, if you find the end(not the root end) and jus pull you'll find where the root end is. You can sometimes just pull it all right out by hand. I would charge maybe like $60/hr for it plus disposal.

    Good Luck

    Jeff
     
  3. activelandscaping

    activelandscaping LawnSite Member
    Posts: 241

    Just did a bed renovation that was a mass of English Ivy. I was removing the top 14" of soil anyway so I used my backhoe. I'm not shure how it is there, but the bed I did was tough. It probably would have taken 5 or 6 hours to clear the 35' X 20' mass out of the bed, if you don't get the roots it just grows back.:realmad:

    Good Luck,
    Jim L
     
  4. Coffeecraver

    Coffeecraver LawnSite Senior Member
    from VA.
    Posts: 793

    You should cut it as low as possible

    A power rake to get the bulk and pile it.

    You will still have some hand pulling to do.

    When you are finished spray area with Garlon

    :)
     
  5. Geezer

    Geezer LawnSite Member
    Posts: 44

    I would suggest a multi phased approach as your biggest problem will be regrowth from the roots left behind. I would use a non-selective systemic (glyphosate would work) as step one. Be sure to add a surfactant or a spreader / sticker to your mix as well as some soluable fert. This will speed the uptake of the chem into the plantand you will get a faster result as the cool temps are slowing growth rates. After giving the chem time to translocate, the next step would be to cut off as much of the leaf canopy as possible and re-spray any newly emerged leaves. Wait for this app to be taken up. You would then do your physical / mechanical removal of the vines. You need to explain to the customer that it is not easy to get rid of an established stand of Hedera helix and the extra time will be justified in the result. If they are patient enough, the deader it is, the easier it will to excavate the root system. Be sure to figure in the travel for multiple trips to the job site.

    I do not reccommend Garlon if this area is over / near the root systems of any desirable trees / shrubs. Drift of very small amounts of this ester product would be damaging to desirable vegetation.
     
  6. activelandscaping

    activelandscaping LawnSite Member
    Posts: 241

    Glyphosate ( Roundup ) is a good method. If you have sensitive plant material in the beds, and you wish to keep it, I would recomend buying a tip with a sprayshild. These are inexpensive and will pay for itself with the first unexpected wind shift.

    There are two other items that you should be aware of:

    1) You will need a much higher rate (concentration) of Glyphosate than you would to kill herbacious plant material, so price it accordingly.
    2) In most states you need to be licenced to spray anything, not shure about your state, or if you consider the EPA checking you for a CPA licence a real possibility. BTW, anytime you spray any chem. it's a good idea to have the MSDS on hand.

    Best of luck,
    Active
     
  7. GarPA

    GarPA LawnSite Silver Member
    from PA
    Posts: 2,585

    I'm with Activelandscaping above on his method. Roundup in a higher concentration will kill the entire plant. We've done a few of these with the Roundup approach and its a whole lot easier and more successful and less grunt work than trying to rip it out by hand. After it dies, we just line trim it to the ground and do the mulch work or whatever the next part of the plan is. It is unlikely you will get all of the rooots if you try to pull it out.
     
  8. Turfdude

    Turfdude LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,900

    YYes, you can use glyphoseate, but if you have your license, a 3-way weed killer (trimec) or even momentum works better at its normal mix rate (but do use a spreader sticker). We have found a skid steer w/ teeth on the bucket to be the fastest way to remove English ivy.
     
  9. activelandscaping

    activelandscaping LawnSite Member
    Posts: 241

    Trimec would certainly get the job done. If you are planning on replanting, sodding or seeding the bed any time in the near future, however, I would stick to using the Roundup. Remember the Roundup Pro already has a surfactant added to it's formulation.:)

    Regards,
    Active
     

Share This Page