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growth regulaters

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by poghead, Nov 17, 2001.

  1. poghead

    poghead LawnSite Member
    Posts: 29

    I was just wondering, how many of you guys are using growth regulators on grassy hillsides? Also, do you find it to be cost effective vs. mowing the hillside? And can you tell me if I will need a chemical applicators license to purchase the inhibitor?

  2. GroundKprs

    GroundKprs LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,969

    That is the precise reason for using growth regulators - to reduce mowing time and frequency. And it is very cost effective.

    You can probably purchase PGRs without a pesticide license; I don't know of any that are restricted use. But you must have a license to apply them for hire (you can use it on your lawn, but not on a customer's lawn).
  3. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,956


    In my state you need a pesticide lic to apply anything except fert. to turf or ornamemtal. Check your local Laws. Your county extension agent is a good source, you should get to know him.

    I have used growth regulars on turf and ornamemtals. Growth regulators on ornamemtals will cause inward growth instead of upward growth and are good for filling in shrubs that have had heavy top growth cut off.

    G.R. on turf will slow growth but some will cause turf to lose color as well. I am more familiar with growth regulars on agi or farm Turf than residentual. Here we are talking bush hoging 3 times a year instead of 6 to 9 times per year. The favorate Growth regular was ( are you ready for this ) Roundup. Roundup 41% pro 0.5 oz per gallon applied at 2 gallion per acrer. It not only worked as a growth regular but also as a select herbicide. How ever color was lost. But it did not turn yellow. Please remember that this was on warm season turf and not on fine kept lawns. So no your an idiot posts please. My problem with banks is get growth at the top where water will not stay and at the bottom where you get a whole lot of growth. I aerate the top and just keep mowing the bottom. I have not though about turf regulars for a long time until your post. Hope this gives you some insight. I am sure someone else will post what I have forgotten.
  4. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,956

    TYPO Corrections after 9 years. Better late than never. The above should read 20 gallon per acre

    But there is a method to my madness here. I wanted to bring this thread current to show I have been Chemically Mowing for a number of years before making the above post. My own yard hasn't been cut since August and looks like it was mowed this morning. BTW August and early Sept are still our Rainy Season.

    Over the Years my Chemicals, Calibration and Equipment have evolved and are nothing like my first attempts. I pretty much have it down to a science now and I am ready to finally Market the Idea that you don't need your grass cut every week. Yes I might just be getting back into mowing if the price is right.

    The Market I seek for Chemical Mowing is not your Fine Lawn but more the weed patch customer who has a utility type turf. This might include Industrial areas or Commercial Business parks. Of course Greenbelts for HOA also fits my market model. BUT MY IMPORTANT FIND WAS HOW TO KEEP THE TURF DARK GREEN WHEN CHEMICALLY MOWED.
  5. Az Gardener

    Az Gardener LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,899

    OK I'll bite, please share your trade secret that has taken years to discover after many trials and errors. If you don't want to share it I don't blame you a bit but like my mom always said the only stupid question is the one you don't ask.
  6. fl-landscapes

    fl-landscapes LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,542

    so the spray paint worked?:laugh:
  7. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,956


    I am not so sure it is a trade secret as much as calibrating equipment at different times of the growing season in my climate. You climate may be different as is your turf. I am working with Bermuda and Bahia on Calcareous Sand with a natural pH of 9.5. Up take of Nutrients as well as Growth Regulators is going to be different in your soil.

    But I will give the same start I had plus a few tips. Read Section 8.3 of this Label.


    China is back making Glyphosate but any Glyphosate from China doesn't have the surfactant that Monsanto made Glyphosate has. While this fact might not effect straight non select weed Kill, it does with lower AI mixtures. So one secret is to add surfactant to cheaper China Made Glyphosate.

    Next tip is without adding any thing special Glyphosate is going to Yellow the turf. In the case of Road & Right-away or Citrus Groves were this is done every day and every where it doesn't matter that there is some Yellowing. But to chemical mow in residential and have Yellowing is unacceptable. Therefore you need to add fertilizer to the mix. BTW I have added too much fertilizer at times and instead of Yellowing or Growth regulation I got a Big Flush of Growth. So it isn't fool proof. What works for might not work for you, etc

    HOWEVER after you get it right a whole new Market opens up. In my case that is Snow Bird Turf because Snow Birds could case less about their lawns in Florida's Rainy season. I can cut these yard several times a year instead of several time a month. Hey I can charge the same and throwing in some Baits for Fire Ant Control and out compete the Yard Boys because I actually have some credentials and an a education. In Florida you need a CPO licensed in L & O to apply Growth Regulators to turf.
  8. Tim Smith

    Tim Smith LawnSite Member
    Posts: 69

    Ric I would still love to see this. When you or I get a chance would love to come down and take a look
    Posted via Mobile Device
  9. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,956


    I am hoping on being at Promo's this coming week end, but I am still not sure.

    I know we already talked about this on the Phone. But you see this all the time everyday. Counties in your area were the first to do Chemical Mowing on there Roads & Right Away years ago. Google "Chemical Mowing" and you will find good information. It is no secret. The TRICK is to keep the turf green without yellow tips when doing Homeowners Turf. This is the reason it is used mostly at this time on Utility Turf.

    Let us talk St Augustine for a second. Primo now has a generic, but back when it cost close to $ 400 a gallon I was using it. I had Mowing crews at the time and at 4 oz an acre I couldn't afford not to use it. It slows growth by inhibiting cell elongation. The Grass actually looks greener because the cells are smaller with the same Nutrients. Because I did nothing but upscale work in those days we still cut every week. But mowing was faster with less debris. We would weed eat every other week and no body knew it.
  10. Az Gardener

    Az Gardener LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,899

    Have you tried adding iron? or spreading a product like Ironite prior to spraying? That's one of my tricks to minimize our clippings pulled form a typical mowing.

    My real interest in PGR is for fig vines that cover homes and hedge rows. I am concerned about uniform applications in hedge rows. The labels are so adamant about uniform coverage they have me freaked out about ending up with some deformed shrubs for a period of time.

    I don't mind spending the money on Bonsi or Atrimec, spraying low doses of glyphos would make me nervous. We spray Atrimec about a week prior to scalping and over seeding to prevent the Bermuda from popping right back and being intermixed with the winter rye.

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