Grubbs, how can I treat this myself?

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by PROCUTSLAWNCARE, Mar 28, 2005.

  1. PROCUTSLAWNCARE

    PROCUTSLAWNCARE LawnSite Member
    Posts: 140

    I know they make a grubb control you can spread in a fertilizer spreader, does this work, if not what can I do for this. A customer called today and was wodering if she needs to call chemlawn or can I do something for her.

    Does the store bought stuff work or do I need to make a call to chemlawn???

    Thanks
     
  2. LB1234

    LB1234 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,210

    Ohio may require you to have a liscense for 'pesticide' applications...which is what you are looking for. Chances are if you are asking what to do then you don't have one...not sure what the law is in your state.
     
  3. PROCUTSLAWNCARE

    PROCUTSLAWNCARE LawnSite Member
    Posts: 140

    I dont get into heavy ferts or pests. that often. I will throw down some scotts for a customer if they ask but I try not to get to involved with that. I am thinking of getting a lic. though?

    any ideas for the grubbs?
     
  4. LB1234

    LB1234 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,210

    Personally I subcontract out my fertilizer/pesticide services cause they have the liscense, insurance, and equipment to do the job. I don't agree with what you're doing...even if its just "for a customer that asks" but hey...its your business...

    And yes, they sell stuff in homeripoff and blowes for grubs...comes in a granual form. I believe to be most effective you need to place it down in late summer (???)...something to do with when the beetles go back into the ground and lay there eggs...which turn into grubs...can someone confirm?
     
  5. Mark McC

    Mark McC LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,565

    There is some fairly standard grub control stuff all over the place. Shoot, you can get it at Lowe's if there's no Lesco place nearby.

    For long-term treatment, you pretty much have to go with milky spore, but to knock the blighters down quick, you'll need something with imidacloprid. Maybe another chemical out there that'll work as well, I dunno. It's not a big deal.
     
  6. slicksilverado01

    slicksilverado01 LawnSite Member
    from Ohio
    Posts: 173

    Well my lawn/landscape insurance covers dry fert and pest but doesnt cover liquid. I found that out just a few months ago. I also found out it covers for tree removel as long the tree is already on ground. I use to have 1/2 mill liability but this year I increased it to 1 mill cause half the commerical jobs I got this year require it.
     
  7. lordohturf

    lordohturf LawnSite Member
    from SW OH
    Posts: 173

    In Ohio you need a license to treat grubs or any other pest professionally. The info covered in the study material for the State Test covers grubworm seasonal changes and controls.
    You run the risk of fines or at least a good wrist slapping if you get caught.

    Also important, if you don't understand the problem, you will be less likely to know how and when and how much to control them. Merit or Mach 2 offer season long control of grubs if applied at the right time and the right rate.
    In Northern Ohio you probably would be best off with a June application. If using Merit, make sure it is watered in with at least 1" of water with a few days of application for best results.
     
  8. PROCUTSLAWNCARE

    PROCUTSLAWNCARE LawnSite Member
    Posts: 140

    Thanks guys,

    My best bet it too just tell my cust. to call a lic. pro in the field and get it done right. I was just trying to help her out and keep all the work fairly cheap for her.

    Thanks for the info....
     
  9. Big Hoss

    Big Hoss LawnSite Member
    Posts: 57

    You need to take the Core test and The Turfgrass test. Contact your local extension office or the Ohio Department of Agriculture.
    Good Luck!
    Big Hoss
    Core
    5,6a,6c,7,8
     
  10. marko

    marko LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 963

    Call a pro! If she has grubs, they will come up for a minor feeding this spring, but rarely do damage. They will go back down and prepare for emergence later in the summer. The damaging feedings are in the fall and to control these, I have found Merit is the best. I would shy away from Chemlawn doing the applying as it is a pretty specific science and the timing is important. It needs to be watered in good, and lawn clippings are "suppose" to be left on the lawn for several weeks (not sure of the exact time frame). Application should go down no later than July 4th.
     

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