help!! carb adjustments

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by A.D Services, Jan 15, 2007.

  1. A.D Services

    A.D Services LawnSite Member
    Posts: 224

    hey i have a old toro snowblower i am fixing up i got it running but i cant get the idle screws in the carburetor set to ide without stalling. it is a Toro S-200 electric start model with the 2stroke tecumseh motor could someone help me with carb settings i would look in the manule but i got it out of the trash

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  2. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,022

    Put it back in the trash !!!.... JK, Most low speed adjusters are closed then opened one turn for initial starting then fine tuned from there. You may have a problem (trash) in the low speed circuit in that carb. have you had the carb. apart ?
     
  3. mojob

    mojob LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 515

    I'd try turning them all the way in and then backing them out a couple of turns to start. Just don't turn them in too tight or you'll damage the needle and seat. If there are two screws, one is for the low rpm adjust and the other is for the high rpm adjust. The engine could just be worn out too. Another thing to check would be the exhaust port and muffler to see if it's clogged. Hope that helps.
     
  4. JDWalkbehind

    JDWalkbehind LawnSite Member
    Posts: 224

    my friend mitch and my grandpa has one there are pretty nice for how old they are. Take the whole carb out and take it apart don't worry they are small. put it in some parts cleaner and make sure it's all clean. ask DreamCut LawnCare (mitch) he know's better than i do since he's got one.
     
  5. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Posts: 2,231

    I am assuming you have two adjustment screws since you did say screws. Close both screws snugly and then open both 1 to 1 1/4 turns. Check to see where they are at now as yourun them closed. If you can get it started with the new setting, hold the throttle down to idle position and adjust idle screw to best running condition, then let it open up and adjust the high speed screw to best running condition.

    If you picked it up out of the trash, I would check the compression to make sure that it is adequate then install a new needle and seat as well as diagphram kit. It's entirely possible if it has sat for some time the diagphram is hard and will not pump fuel properly.

    Diagphram kit 630978 It's been a while but I think these #'s are
    n&s 630932A correct.

    Before you spend a lot of money on the S-200, keep in mind that outside of paddles, scraper and engine parts a great deal of other parts are obsolete and what may be available is high priced due to the number of units surviving.

    This is one of Toro's worst efforts at a snow blower, in my opinion, and one that I absolutely hated to see come in the shop.

    Dutch
     
  6. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Posts: 2,231

    Incidentally the idle screw is the closest to the engine.

    I was a litle soft in my reply but at least I was cautionary. In the end I am in total agreement with Restro.

    Dutch
     
  7. A.D Services

    A.D Services LawnSite Member
    Posts: 224

    i took it apart cleaned it up put a new diafram in the carb and it fired up right away i think its a nice little snowblower for how old it is are i just cant get it to idle right it will run with the chock on but if i take the choke off it dies right away . so you guys are saying these were one of the worst toro snowblowers? are the motors bad or something or is it the overall desighn of the blower. thanks for the help!
     
  8. mojob

    mojob LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 515

    It sounds like the crank seals are shot. If it runs with the choke on and dies when you turn it off that means it's running real lean. Two strokes will run lean if the engine isn't sealed up tight. Air is drawn into the crankcase through any gaps around seals causing a lean mixture.
     
  9. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Posts: 2,231

    How observant were you when you removed the old diagphram?

    There were two types of diagphram carbs on the Tecumseh's. One is the F style and have an F stamped on the boss just above the closing plate on the inlet end of the carb. If it has an F, the diagphram is installed first followed by the gasket and closing plate. If there is not an F, the gasket goes on first followed by the diagphram and closing plate. You also should squirt carb/choke cleaner through the fuel inlet clean up any varnish in the intake screen. As I recall there is also a check valve in the inlet so do not blow through the inlet with high pressure air.

    Another item I just recalled(remember it's been 4 years since I have been in a shop situation) that the S200's have a points/condensor ignition system. To accomplish this the shroud and flywheel must be removed. Point gap is .020. Our shop would not do a tune up without a car rebuild and points/condensor replacement. If a blower also needed scraper and paddles, the bill was $150-200 and rightfully so, the customer would most likely opt for a more efficient model. The S620 followed the S200 and was identical to it except that it had solid state ignition. Both were underpowered and poorly designed, particularly the housing. The newer PowerLites with the curved paddles, solid state ignition and Walbro bowl type carb were much more efficient and a pleasure to work on. In addition they had a metal housing.

    I worked on at least 40 of them in 97 and that number gradually decreased to nearly 0 in 2003 due to age and cost of repair.

    Dutch
     
  10. A.D Services

    A.D Services LawnSite Member
    Posts: 224

    i dont remember what order i installed the diafram and gasket if it is in wrong do you think this will cause this situation it is in because ive played around with the screws and i still cant get it to run right, ive come close i could get it to run the rpms high then they go low then high again and on and on it goes. isnt that what they call power surging? not sure. do you think the crank seals are a possibility?
     

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