Help. Clutch problem

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by Keith, Jan 21, 2002.

  1. Keith

    Keith LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,977

    My Kees ZTMax has a Warner Mag-Stop PTO clutch (just like a Lazer). It has been acting up for a while, off and on. Sometimes when hot it would fail to engage, but today it quit completely. I went down to a local shop, got ripped off, but they had a replacement in stock. I just put it on and it does nothing, no click, no nothing. Fuse looks fine.

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Keith
     
  2. Mowingman

    Mowingman LawnSite Platinum Member
    from Texas
    Posts: 4,666

    Have you checked out the switch that engages the electric clutch. Switch could be bad or have a corroded contact under it. Could also be a bad safety switch somewhere on machine, like under seat or on brake or control levers.
     
  3. Keith

    Keith LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,977

    Haven't checked the switch yet. I will tomorrow when I have some light to work with. Thanks for the quick reply.
     
  4. Keith

    Keith LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,977

    OK, I got the switch out. Any idea how to test it?
     
  5. Hookset

    Hookset LawnSite Member
    Posts: 128

    Did the old one click when you tried to engage it? If not probably bad switch. If the old one clicked check your installation of the new one.
     
  6. It wont engade if the batt is low.

    Sounds like a safty switch is bad.

    Replace your fuse first, sometimes they can go bad and you not see it.

    Check all switches.

    Take a continuity/OHM meter set it so it beeps when the contacts touch.

    Hook to switch then turn it on if it beeps then the currect is flowing through it.

    If not switch is bad.

    Check your PTO switch also.

    If problem is still there tell us what you tested.

    BTW when the PTO cluch goes out they go out, they lock up.
     
  7. An electric clutch is pretty basic. Disconnect it from the wiring on the mower. Then run a jumper wire back to the battery. If it works, it's in the wiring. If it don't you need another new clutch.
    Did you find what burned up your old clutch? If it's a poor electrical connection, it'll burn up your new one too. Solder connections if you have too. Replace any switches that don't feel just right when you switch them on and off. Make sure safety switches don't stutter off and on because they're set too sensitive.
    Electric clutches are vulnerable to amperage drop because they draw so much power. Every connection has to be close to perfect. Visually inspecting every connection between the clutch and the battery is the best way to anticipate trouble. If you find corrosion on a switch terminal, don't clean it, replace it. Electrical corrosion is an indication of low current flow. Probably a bad switch.
    I've burned up a few electric clutches, this is what I've learned. Maybe someone else has more.

    Dave
     
  8. Keith

    Keith LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,977

    Just before I took the switch out, I tested and got no voltage at the wire connection just before the clutch. How much should it be there? I will get a fuse tomorrow morning and try that.

    Also can I assume, the safety switches at the seat, brake, and steering levers are ok, since the mower cranks ok. Or would I be getting to far ahead of myself?
     
  9. bob

    bob LawnSite Platinum Member
    from DE
    Posts: 4,254

    I have 2 identical mowers. I thought the PTO switch was bad, so I swapped switches to test them. And sure enough the switch was bad. I bought a extra one for a back up part.
     
  10. You can either bypass the fuse or put a higher or lower blow amp one in just to test it. Or even your meter.

    Volts to clutch, it's a 12 volt system so 12 volts.

    I would assume the same since its starts ok.
     

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