Help me make transition to organic

Discussion in 'Organic Lawn Care' started by MrC, Jun 19, 2009.

  1. drugrep

    drugrep LawnSite Member
    Posts: 44

    I assumed 80% loss due to evap.
     
  2. drugrep

    drugrep LawnSite Member
    Posts: 44

    People really need to stop with word "Organic" and change to "Natural"

    Elements are inorganic. Water is inorganic.

    You can have a natural source of P, but it is still inorganic.
     
  3. WannaBeOrganic

    WannaBeOrganic LawnSite Member
    Posts: 90

    Based on your username I take it you probably have a background in chemistry. Different words can have a different meaning in different contexts. Just like a tossed salad means something different to someone in a restaurant and someone in prison.
     
  4. WannaBeOrganic

    WannaBeOrganic LawnSite Member
    Posts: 90

    That article was about gardening and not lawn care so it is possible that bone meal would have been used at the time of planting or as an amendment that was thoroughly mixed into the soil.

    It also didn't provide a high level of detail. It would be nice to know at exactly what level of P does grass work on root growth and when it attracts mycchorziae.

    Also, is there some type of balance where you can get both. Mycchorziae colonization can help plants absorb water and nutrients better but is it sometimes better to have deeper roots instead? During the summer where you have greater evaporation of water from the soil, which one is better?

    Mycchorizae help with disease resistance as well but there are other ways to accomplish that.

    I haven't really had the time to look into much of this yet, maybe others have the answers to these questions. So weather you need to buy and add P is unknown to me but it seems clear that you don't need to inoculate the soil mycchorizae unless it doesn't contain any, which seems unlikely especially if the soil is organically managed. If the plants need mycchorizae they will attract and feed them which will cause them to multiply.
     
  5. drugrep

    drugrep LawnSite Member
    Posts: 44

    My pH is high (7.7 on 1 test & 7.4 on another), Phosphorus locks up worse in acidic soil. I just feel as low as my P is, I'm doing the right thing using starter year round.
     
  6. WannaBeOrganic

    WannaBeOrganic LawnSite Member
    Posts: 90

    Like they say, there are many ways to skin a cat. Sometimes you also have stop and think if skinning a cat is what you really should be doing.

    On an organic lawn care forum you're bound to get some resistance when you say you have to use synthetics because you can't do the same with organic lawn care in a reasonable amount of time.

    Like someone else suggested, the soil test may have only determined the available P in your soil. Since you have alkaline soil, maybe that swayed the results? You could have plenty of P, you just need to have it become available?

    I'm curious how much P they recommended you add?

    I don't know the answers to some of these questions but I pose them because I'm curious as to what they might be.
     
  7. ICT Bill

    ICT Bill LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,115

    My position is: don't chase PH

    Mycorrhizae can increase root mass by 600%, talk about deep roots.

    Sometimes you have to choose a path, go one way or another. I choose no applied P, you will not find P in any of our products. Mycorrhizae and sustainable ways of supporting the herd is the way to go

    BTW, welcome drugrep. I haven't been around here a lot lately you may have been here quite a bit, but welcome
     
  8. WannaBeOrganic

    WannaBeOrganic LawnSite Member
    Posts: 90

    That's interesting, I haven't been able to find anything to support your assertion that mycorrhizae can dramatically increase root mass by the amount you claim. I would be interested in seeing an unbiased independent reference if you have one.

    Everything I've read seems to indicate that plants attract and feed mycorrhizae so that they multiply when the plant doesn't have the root mass to extract water and nutrients on its own.

    Unless you're talking about the extra surface area that mycorrhizae provide, but that's not technically the plant's root per se.
     
  9. Pristine1

    Pristine1 LawnSite Member
    from Maine
    Posts: 81

    OK, guys.... I think enough is enough. We don't have to argue about every stupid post do we????? If someone makes a claim, that is all it is, a claim. If someone else chooses to follow that claim without doing any research on their own, that is their risk. I would like to think that most people are intelligent enough to check other sources for information before putting things into practice. For instance, the milk thing on another post, I googled it, and there are a number of entries for it. It is my choice to do it or not based on what I learned.

    Lets move on from this stupid bickering....my kids are home for the summer, and I think the crap in this forum is worse!....and lets continue helping each other out, with the caveat that one should research anything they are doing.

    My .02.
     
  10. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    I agree that different forms of P can be 'worked into' the soil will fine results.

    My point was that if you apply P to the surface and it is bound to the soil at the surface, that is where it is going to stay. Those soil particles must be physically moved - in order for the P that is attached to them to move. No leaching possible.
    N, of course just washes freely through the soil without much bonding at all. Especially with sand.
     

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