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HELP NEEDED, Greener Lawn??

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by BotetourtBoy3, May 6, 2007.

  1. BotetourtBoy3

    BotetourtBoy3 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 63

    Hello i am a homeowner who has a lawn that suffers from, bare spots, grubs, some crab grass, insignificant light on lawn, moss, and many other weeds. What should i start doing, what kind of fertilizers should start with and which should i continue using their after? any other tips please feel free to share
  2. mow2nd

    mow2nd LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 603

    Well now is not the time to start, you should of started last September if you wanted a good looking lawn now. As a homeowner I couldnt tell ya what to do because I dont know what is avaiable for you. I hear a lot about this Scotts program, but I dont know anything about it. I dont think you're seeing any crab grass yet. I get a lot of customers saying they have it and I show up and it is anywhere from chickweed to Dallis grass.

    When was the last time you applied Lime? Pound it with lime, and get yourself set up for next fall. Or call a professional
  3. scottp

    scottp LawnSite Member
    Posts: 21

    I had a similiar situation last fall. I had a black walnut that hung to around 6-8 feet in my backyard. Completely shaded the lawn. First off, I had the canopy raised about 15-20 feet for starters. Then I took some soil samples in for testing to find out it had almost no nitrogen, very high in potash and very high in potasium. I then aerated with a power core aerator. I overseeded with approx. 25# of seed w/in 2 days of aerating. Then after about 3 weeks I put down a shot of 46-0-0 fertalizer. Also watered it for 2hours/day 3-4 days a week.

    This spring, I gave the lawn a shot of 26-3-6 about mid March. Then about mid April I gave it another shot of 26-3-6. So damn thick right now, I can't hardly cut it. Cut the lawn 4 times last week.
  4. ampeg76

    ampeg76 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 297

    soil samples take the blind crap shoot out:)

    good job
  5. mow2nd

    mow2nd LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 603

    That's a lot of (N) I hope you got ur FUNGICIDE ready...........ur gonna need it
  6. scottp

    scottp LawnSite Member
    Posts: 21

    No Worries!!!!!
  7. indyturf

    indyturf LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Indy
    Posts: 1,877

    TOOO much N!! sounds like tru green??
  8. americanlawn

    americanlawn LawnSite Fanatic
    from midwest
    Posts: 5,859

    In Virginia, some soils are very acidic, yet some are not. Bluegrass prefers a pH of about 6.5 (slightly acidic). You may want to get a pH test. If it's below 6.0 , lime is good. In the old days, ChemLawn actually had a seperate "round" just for lime in Virginia Beach.

    Moss = aerate the lawn to improve soil drainage. Algaecides are only a temporary fix.

    Shady areas require less fertilizer than sunny areas, but if you want your lawn to recover and "fill in", make sure it gets fed enough. I like LESCO's 34-3-11 slo-release.

    Shade: Prune up trees to allow more sunlight (Kentucky Bluegras needs about 4 hours of sunight a day).
    Areas that are just too shady = use Vinca minor ground cover, or landscape with shade-tolerant ornamentals.
    Fine fescue grassy tolerate 'some' shade, but......

    You can seed shady areas in the spring. Sunny areas = September is best for seeding in Virginia. A 4-way blend of kentucky blue is best>> aerate 2 or 3 times, then overseed, then drag the area with a section of chain link fence.
    OR....spread the seed, then power rake twice (2 different directions).

    Make sure you do a late fall feeding (heavy fert). You will see nice improvement early spring 2008.

    Grubs (sunny areas): apply "Merit" in July.

    Once your lawn starts growing, "mowing is the key". Don't mow too short, as this will thin out the lawn. Mow often, cuz the more often you mow, the thicker the lawn gets. Make sure the blade is sharp to minimize diseases.

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