1. Missed the live Ask the Expert event?
    Not to worry. Check out the archived thread of the Q&A with Ken Hutcheson, President of U.S. Lawns, and the LawnSite community in the Franchising forum .

    Dismiss Notice

help please

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by sod, May 26, 2005.

  1. sod

    sod LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13

    we just moved into a new home. one of the valves on our sprinkler system is not working. my husband has tried to get it going both with the control box and by turning it on manually. we can hear a faint water running sound but the pressure is not enough to get water to come out of the heads. the valve is a Toro pro flow (i think that is name) and I have read here doing a search that they are junk. I was told by the previous owner that it is about 12-15 years old. my question is what do you pros think the problem is. Is it fixable? If so how? If we have to replace the valve does anyone know where a person can get detailed instruction. we live about 40 miles from the closest town with a service place so we trying to fix it ourself since having to get it done would be extremely costly with travel etc. for such a small repair. thanks. :angel:
  2. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,691

    You might find it more to your adavantage to replace all of the valves at once. The Flo-Pro is no longer manufactured, and parts availability is a long-term question mark.
  3. sps2868

    sps2868 LawnSite Member
    from ATL, GA
    Posts: 91

    is an excellent idea mostly because they are valves that are not manufactured anymore and are almost impossible for contractors to find parts for. If that is the way you are leaning I would call a professional contractor tell them your issue and ask them what they would charge you to come out and fix the issue. I am constantly told I am a very high bidder so I will give you a ball park on the high range. 2 hours of labor ($75 per) and $25 per valve.

    6 zone system $300 service call. Plus if you call a reputable company you could ask to have them run a system check for you and maybe they can point out any weaknesses or defiencies in your system. Again I would charge you an hour ($75) to perform a routine system check.
  4. sod

    sod LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13

    Thanks, I convinced you are probably right. Only problem is that with the new house, closing costs, moving expenses etc. we are more than alittle short of cash flow. So replacing all the valves will probably have to wait until next year. I was hoping to find a short term solution for the immediate problem with the one valve. I imagine I could trade the hubby in for a different model, but I doubt I would make enough off the deal to pay for all new valves. Maybe, the $215 million powerball .....
  5. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    You are a high bidder...and you work fast. 2 hours to replace 6 valves? Unless they are in nice manifolds, thats pretty fast.


    First off, make sure the flow control on your valve is all the way open (if this valve has that option. Diaghram valves are usually pretty much on or off, and if your getting some water, then its probably the flow control.

    If that doesn't help then try this:

    If the valve is by itself in the valve box, its going to be a lot easier to change, if its in a manifold of a bunch of valves, its going to be a big pain, and you might want a pro to do it.

    If its by itself dig it up and determine if its threaded onto the pipe or glued. If its glued, then you'll want to buy a replacement valve (slip will be easier for you than threaded) and a slipfix (Sliding PVC repair thingy) from your local home cheapo.

    Glue the new valve and slipfix together with the slipfix on the downstream side.

    Cut the old valve off the pipe as close to the pipe as you can, then cut back enough pipe on the downstream side to fit the slipfix and valve in the hole. Glue the upstream side of the valve onto the pipe, and then glue and slide the slipfix onto the downstream side.

    Wire it up, backfill and your done.
  6. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,691

    I was actually thinking in terms of rebuilding the entire manifold, because in many cases, the original may have not been constructed with valve replacement in mind.
  7. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    I'm hoping (for Sod's sake), that its just a single valve with pipe on either end and not on a manifold.
  8. 300 bucks to replace 6 valves?

    My techs quote 100 per valve for this work. And get it most of the time. I would say you are a high hourly technician, but certainly a low bidder :)
  9. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,691

    The one easiest way to fix a system with a non-opening valve that you have trouble getting parts for, is to 'gimmick' the valve so that it's stuck wide open, and to cut in another valve right after it. With any diaphragm valve, you can cut out the center of the diaphragm assembly, and place the remainder in its usual location when you replace the cover, so it seals. This method ain't pretty, but it will work in any situation, especially those where the removal of the old valve is difficult or impossible. ;)
  10. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    GASP! I'm turning you in! except I don't know to who :)

    Yep, been there done that. Old brass valves you didn't dare disturb for what ever reason. You do still have to extend the wire to the new valve though.

Share This Page