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help with weedy lawn piedmont nc

Discussion in 'Homeowner Assistance Forum' started by j-sin, Apr 6, 2012.

  1. j-sin

    j-sin LawnSite Member
    Posts: 45

    wow thanks so much for AWESOME information

    I do have a broadcast spreader I had planned on using to spread the seed
    and I was going to rent am aerator from local tool rental and go over my lawn 3 times

    Is a drop spreader required for seeding ir is that sufficient for spreading the seed

    I would also use it for the lime and starter fertilizer

    I had planned on using Lesco Transition blend fescue

    your numbers for seeding is at 6 lbs an acre or even 8

    would these numbers be LESS for overseeding the following year?
  2. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    So Southern grasses cannot be sown in the Spring???
  3. Bigfish8

    Bigfish8 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 56

    In Central North Carolina sowing Fescue in the Spring is a waste of time and money. The grass will come up but does not have enough time to establish a root system to sustain it through the hot months of summer. Even sowing Fescue in the fall you will have to overseed again every fall because the heat will kill some every year.
  4. Duekster

    Duekster LawnSite Fanatic
    from DFW, TX
    Posts: 7,961

    When I lived in NC lots of people did use fescue but some people had what was called wire grass. NC is one of those transisition states that is not great for cool season or warm season grasses.

    there are some improved warm season grasses that will likely do well in Charlotte but I would need to know more before making a recommendation

    I would start off with some soil test. This will tell you how much lime you need.
    You forget to tell us if you have sun or shade or both?
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2012
  5. agrostis

    agrostis LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,294

    I use a drop spreader to seed anywhere i want a sharply defined edge. I use a rotary spreader for everything else, including fertilizer and pelletized lime. Transition blend seed is a good start but you can do better. Yes, the number for overseeding is less, 3 Lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. the next year, 2 Lbs. per 1000 after that.
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2012
  6. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    If CG was the only warm-season grass that I could get to grow in my lawn in the Spring time , I think I would let it grow, rather than have mud all summer...
    We are moving into the ONLY time of year, that makes Wisco, tolerable... :)
  7. j-sin

    j-sin LawnSite Member
    Posts: 45

    been waiting for months the time is HERE now

    what should my attack plan be?

    there are also a couple really bumpy spots when Im mowing
    I may have it tilled or bring in soil

  8. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    Bringing in soil, is generally a lot less hassle than tilling and leveling the clumps and waiting for it to finsh settling again... beyond that Southerners will have to advise you on what to seed and how to make it thrive... good luck... :)
  9. puppypaws

    puppypaws LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 8,915

    How bad is the lawn, and is there a great deal of crabgrass? The reason I ask this question is because there are different modes of attack. If the lawn is bad enough, I would spray Roundup to kill everything growing, but while I was spraying the roundup I would also add a pre-emergent weed killer. The pre-emergent herbicide will move into the ground forming a barrier that will hold weed competition out for approximately 60 days, while allowing for full grass establishment. The herbicide will need to be incorporated by either rainfall (need at least 1/2"), or by you mechanically watering to ensure thorough penetration.

    After your Roundup has done its job (approximately one week), and you are certain the herbicide is incorporated, take a mixture of 1 lb. of Kentucky Bluegrass, to 10 lbs. of Kentucky 31 creeping fescue and spread it liberally, and uniformly over the lawn area. Do not, I repeat, do not skimp on seed to be sown, whatever the amount of seed recommended in pounds per square foot for your area, "DOUBLE OR TRIPLE THIS AMOUNT."

    THE BEST FIGHT YOUR LAWN CAN EVER PUT UP AGAINST INVASIVE WEED AND GRASSES NOT DESIRED IS COMPETITIVE EXCLUSION. This means the thicker your stand of grass, the better chance it has of surviving while holding invasive species at bay.

    If you have what you may consider as a reasonable amount of established grass which should be utilized, then we will take a very strong dose of 2, 4-D with a pre-emergent herbicide to clean it up.

    I am in the Southern Piedmont of NC, so the reason I am advocating a pre-emergent weed control herbicide is because you need to be working on this project immediately, and the first hard-killing frost in my area is not normally until November. This means there would still be time for weeds to come back an compete for space against your newly germinated grass seed.

    I don't need to tell you about aerating, sowing grass and watering, I take it you are knowledgeable on this part of the project.
  10. maynardGkeynes

    maynardGkeynes LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 409

    Just saw this -- Please don't use K-31, ugliest stuff there is. A TTTF like Rebel with 10% KBG would be ok. Personally, I'd go with perennial rye for now, and dormant seed in January/Feb with Yukon Bermudagrass. Recent studies have shown that dormant seeding works well with Yukon, and you might even get some germination in March if the weather is mild like last year. It will soon overtake the ryegrass, as long as you keep the ryegrass cut very low once the Yukon starts to germinate and has reached a height of one inch. Yukon will go dormant after the first hard frost, which is pretty late in your area, is very cold tolerant, greens up early in April, and crowds out the weeds. What more could anyone ask?

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