Hitch Preference

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by GLS, Feb 2, 2002.

  1. GLS

    GLS LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,174

    What brand of hitch does everybody use? I am going to buy a class III hitch, but want to know what kind to get. I'm thinking of going with Valley...not the universal fit because IMO they look like junk. This will be going on an '89 silverado 1500. I plan on installing it myself, but they will do it for $40 I think. If I do it myself (which I will probably do), are there any major problems I may run into? I plan on having to drill holes etc.

    Please let me know of any comments/suggestions you have.

    Thanks,
    Ryan
     
  2. Class 5 here.

    1000 tounge weight 10,000 towing.

    I have towed 24,000 with it before.

    Do you have a 1" drill bit?
     
  3. SCAPEASAURUSREX

    SCAPEASAURUSREX LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 835

    For a 1500 a 1/2 ton truck a class 5 is over kill, if they even make it... All you need is the class 3...

    Look at Draw tite... I have had quite a few diff hitches on various trucks and the Draw tites seem to be the best built , & finished, clean welds and so on... I think alot of the newer trucks the hitches line up with factory holes, On the older Fords you have to drill, not sure about the older chevys.. But I believe the ford class 5 on an F250 I did last year was only 5/8 " holes, and the class 3 on my F150 was 1/2" holes... Not too bad to drill on the 1/2 tons. Just make sure you wear very good eye protection !!!!!!!
     
  4. jeffex

    jeffex LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,933

    I got a class III hitch from u-haul. I think it was u-haul.com . It is a hide away type and it bolted to holes already in my 2000 silverado. took maybe 20 min. Nice clean look like those on suvs
    price was $109 I think
     
  5. alfman

    alfman LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

    I would go with the class 3 also. When you go to put it on use vise grips to clamp it in place then drill if needed . I always drill a smaller pilot hole first,it makes it so much easier. Good luck!

    Alf
     
  6. jeffyr

    jeffyr LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 876

    I have a class 4 on my dodge 1500 because it was only $15 more than the class 3. Better to be safe for the small amount of money. Besides, I can carry more toungue weight on the receiver carrier safely than the class 3. If the frame on that Chevy is open then it should be a really quick job. If it is closed then you will have to snake the bolts through from the end with a wire that I believe is supplied.
    I was installing alone and it was too heavy to lift in place and hold so I put a 2x4 across a floor jack and raised it into place and was able to work hands free.

    Oh.....mine is a hiddenhitch and I like it because most of the hitch is tucked under the bumper and all you see is the receiver box.

    jeffyr
     
  7. Turfdude

    Turfdude LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,900

    Use a class III Reese or Draw-Tite. Either one makes hitches to fit your vehicle, just remember to specify vehicle yeare when ordering. If ever you get a larger truck (dump or stake), you may be better off having a welder fabricate one for you;)
    Bob
     
  8. scagman

    scagman LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 270

    What is a class 3 hitch. I just bought a 6.5 x 12 trailer I just have a regular Drawtite hitch with a 2 5/16 ball , is this ok???????
     
  9. It's what they class tounge and trailer weight.

    How did you get a 7000# trailer with a 2 5/16" tounge?
     
  10. scagman

    scagman LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 270

    #7000 pounds is what it can haul, not what it weighs. If thats not what your talking about then ya they did sell me a #7000 GWR trailer, they also installed the hitch and brakes. It seems to do just fine with my Sonoma. If its dangerous let me know!
     

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