Homeowner Needing Lawn Advice

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by quidagis, Oct 14, 2007.

  1. quidagis

    quidagis LawnSite Member
    from MA
    Posts: 1

    For the last two years we have had serious crab grass problems. Last Fall we had our front lawn torn up, had it hydroseeded, and installed irrigation. The new lawn looked great last Fall, but the crabgrass came back over the summer. Although not quite as bad as last year, there is quite a bit. We have had a professional landscape company do all of the fertilizing, but I'm ready to give up on them.

    Two weeks ago, I aerated the whole lawn and applied a Fall fertilizer. I'm wondering...

    1. Should I de-thatch the whole yard and try and remove all the crab grass this Fall, wait until Spring, or not bother with this step?

    2. Reading different threads, people recommend a pre-emergent in mid-March - which product would you suggest? (I do have a Lesco about 25minutes away). How many applications, and how far apart?

    3. Should I slice seed in the Spring (too late now, I would imagine)?

    Any other suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks.
     
  2. WildLake

    WildLake LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 368

    Lesco can help you with the app time for your pre-m. Contact in early spring and they can suggest product and narrow down the best time based on soil temp.
     
  3. PerfectEarth

    PerfectEarth LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,734

    You're probably pushing it in MA for seeding- as soil temps have and will continue to dip... I wouldn't touch the crab right now-too little too late- it'll be on it's way out soon and besides, you'd probably be spreading the seeds around if you agressively "thatch" and tear up the area. Next March is a good time for your pre-m app. Then apply a second one in early summer- end of May/early June.... But as stated by WildLake, ask the folks at Lesco about the exact timing. They'll help.
     
  4. indyturf

    indyturf LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Indy
    Posts: 1,873

    I agree with the 2 apps with pre-m. late summer or early fall is best for seeding, if you seed in the spring the pre-m will also effect your grass seed along with the crabgrass.
     
  5. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,346

    Read the crabgrass label on various crabgrass products. For serious problems some crabgrass products such as Lesco Dimension recommend a higher rate--this is what you should do. If you want to be sure, use the maximum rate--probably double the regular rate. Apply first one when daily high temps first hit about 80--about the time of the second mowing--i would say about late April for your area. Apply it again 8 weeks later--maximum rate again.
     
  6. treemonkey

    treemonkey LawnSite Member
    Posts: 178

    Don't forget about basic weed science principles. Weed seeds lie dormant in the top in(ches) of the soil for years. Everytime you aerate, dethatch, or otherwise scarify the top soil, you expose new weed seeds (crab grass) to the surface to germinate.

    Keep that in mind after you apply the pre m.
     
  7. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,217

    I re-read your original post. It does not say IF the Professional Person even used any pre-emergent. Do you know? If not, therein is the source of the problem. I'm betting little if any. Dimension does well but does poop out after 60 days or so eventhough the bag says otherwise. Apply your pre-em between Feb 15 and March 15. Apply another round about June 1 and the last about August 1. Now you'll have to adjust your fertilizer. Dimension is available in many different fertilizer combo. Get Lesco to show you the difference and keep records of what you did. This is probably more pre than you need but Crabgrass is an annual and comes from seeds. You may need to get a soil test as to guide you on the amount of fertilizer needed on your particular turfgrass. If you get that crab under control this year so that it does not reseed itself you'll be able to cut down on the amount of pre-emergent the following year.
    There's some great guys here that can help you more. My grass in Tn. is fescue or should I say dried up fescue as we've not had rain in two months or more. You've probably a mix of bluegrass and fescue.
    Roy
     
  8. NattyLawn

    NattyLawn LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,643

    No one's going to ask about mowing height, edging?

    We need to see a pic of the lawn.
     
  9. americanlawn

    americanlawn LawnSite Fanatic
    from midwest
    Posts: 5,860

    Ditto. Seems Mass should be far enough north that one pre-emergent should be enough to keep crabgrass out once the turf is established. Maybe time it for May. After the weed pressure diminishes, there should be no prob, unless one keeps breaking up the soil barrier???

    But like NattyLawn mentioned.........after your lawn is mowed, does it measure 3 inches??? How 'bout trimming...3 inches? Or is "scalping" happening? Crabgrass requires sunlight, so the easiest way to get crabgrass is to mow/trim short.:nono:
     
  10. TSM

    TSM LawnSite Senior Member
    from MA
    Posts: 707

    so where abouts in MA are you?
    We service a large geographical area and might be able to help with controls (not seeding)

    We have several weeks of seeding time to go. I'll assume you wont have the irrigation winterized until you do the seeding?
     

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