Honda gx620 ignition help

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by bustuout, Apr 24, 2010.

  1. bustuout

    bustuout LawnSite Member
    Posts: 9

    I have an apparent dead ignition on a 20hp 620gx on a landpride utv I bought my dad recently-ran great yesterday. Parked it in the garage last night without incident and now the ignition is dead-checked parking brake and neutral swith-engine turns over- no spark-Is there an ignitor-magneto-grounding diode etc. Engine looks like it will be a real pain to remove flywheel cover-any insight would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. rotti1968

    rotti1968 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 169

    Isolate the motor from the unit if you can in anyway, doing so by unplugging the wiring harness from the unit to the motor you should still be able to start it by doing so , if it starts then your problem is not the motor its switch related. There are 2 coils and a diode pack on the 620's if after you do that and you still have no spark then it may be ignition. If you have 1 bad coil you need to change both and the diode , and keep in mind they are side dependent left and right can not be switched . Also make sure you have enough oil in the unit as there should be a low oil shut down , and for that mater that may be faulty. the diode packs function is to prevent one side from grounding out the other if the diode goes bad it will knock out a cylinder and make it run like it has a bad coil on one side. just some ideas ......
     
  3. bustuout

    bustuout LawnSite Member
    Posts: 9

    great info- it has an oil pressure switch but I don't see an oil level sensor anywhere-so in review: the ignition system consist of the 2 coils and the diode??? any source/charge coils to be concerned with???
     
  4. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Posts: 2,231

    What you say is an oil sensor is likely a low oil sensor which will shut down ignition if you are low on oil. Check the oil level in the engine and add oil if it is low then try again. If you have no luck getting spark if the oil level is proper, remove the connector to the low oil sensor then check for ignition as you could have a defective oil sensor. Just a couple of thoughts if this occurred suddenly.

    Dutch
     
  5. rotti1968

    rotti1968 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 169

    Yes if that pressure switch is bad it could be your issue,as stated make sure the oil level is correct, if so unplug the pressure switch should be 1 screw on top of the switch and see if it starts. nope they are ignition modules self contained no charge coil etc.. you can also unplug what should be the black wire that comes out from the flywheel/fan cover area that is the module ground if you unplug this and it starts its in the kill circuit.
     
  6. bustuout

    bustuout LawnSite Member
    Posts: 9

    Now you tell me!!!! LOL just finished removing the coils and diode. Anyway the reason I say it's oil pressure not oil level is that the utv has an oil pressure dash light and it will actually go out after a second or two of cranking. I do wish I had tried diconnecting the sensor before I removed everything-damn!:cry: I appreciate all your feedback-couple of more questions? Is there anyway to test the diode and or coils??? 2-how bad is this gonna sting my wallet to buy the coils and diode??? 3-What's the air gap on the coils and flywheel??? thanks to everyone, you've been a great help.
     
  7. bustuout

    bustuout LawnSite Member
    Posts: 9

    Earlier I did isolate the engine from the unit as suggested including the grounding diode wire----no Joy
     
  8. rotti1968

    rotti1968 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 169

    About the thickness of a business card for air gap will be fine, gonna be around 70.00 each for the coils and 30 to 40 for the diode pack . Like I said make sure you put the coils back on correctly left and right side or it will not run right or at all if not done right. The coils are either spark or no spark,you isolate them if no spark then they are bad . The diode pack can be tested with an ohm meter you should only get a reading one way, if both ways its bad. no matter what if your putting coils in just replace the diode no sense in getting back in there because you didnt it the first time.Same with the coils you replace one you do both . Also do your self a favor get the oem parts not aftermarket, quality is not as good and I have seen many customers buy aftermarket to find they are no where near the same part as the oem and then they are stuck with them , cant return electrical parts most of the time.
     
  9. bustuout

    bustuout LawnSite Member
    Posts: 9

    Thanks a ton for the great info-will get the oem coils and diode ordered Monday. How does this engine charge the battery?? I don't see any charge coils unless they are behind the flywheel. Just want to verify the ignition is self-contained and has no relation to the charging coils--if they are back there somewhere--------LOL>thanks again.
     
  10. rotti1968

    rotti1968 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 169

    Charge coils are behind the flywheel no relation to the ignition.
     

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