Honda HRX217 ground drive speed selector cable replacement - help needed (pics).

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Roger, Jul 2, 2009.

  1. Roger

    Roger LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,920

    Screw? The model in these pics uses a hook and loop connection. I've seen others that have a pin and clevis connection. I'm unsure what you mean by screw? Is the end of the cable connected to the control arm out of the transmission with a bolt? Is this a newer model, or one that is much older, perhaps an early design that now has been changed.

    If you need to get better access, then you may have to take out the transmission. That would solve the access problem, right? If removal is needed, then you may need to take apart the parts to the outboard shafts, including the pinion gears. When both outboard shafts are clear of any c-clips, or anything else, then you can move it one side to the other, far enough to one side to take out the shaft from one side, then slide to the other side, and remove the shaft from the bushing. I am doubting that you need to go to this extent to make the cable connection.

    Any pics?
     
  2. Bas08

    Bas08 LawnSite Member
    from Al
    Posts: 2

    There is rectangular piece of plastic attached to the end of the cable, apparently that end attaches to the top of the of the transmission by this screw. The screw locks the cable down up under the pulley. Is there a way to take the pulley off so I can attach that rectangular piece of plastic to the transmission. Access to the transmission is not the problem, its removing that one screw under the pulley. Sorry, I will try to post pics later.
     
  3. wernerhal

    wernerhal LawnSite Member
    Posts: 2

    I found this thread and have the problem of connecting the cable to the transmission. My mower has the clevis and pin. I have not been able to move the pin sufficiently to clear the clevis because it hits the plastic housing. Is there a suggestion without removing the wheels, drive axle, and transmission? Thanks.
    Hal
     
  4. Roger

    Roger LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,920

    wernerhal, look at post #40. This post speaks about having a pin arrangement. He found a kit to use the loop/hook connection.

    However, I assume the pin still has to come out of the clevis. I don't know. Perhaps you can PM the other user to learn what he did to solve the problem. I've not seen the pin/clevis arrangement, so cannot comment about how to remove the pin. Sorry.
     
  5. wernerhal

    wernerhal LawnSite Member
    Posts: 2

    Thanks, Roger.

    I found the parts diagram that looks like the hook attachment adapter. But I presume that I would need to take the transmission loose to convert to the adapter. Thus, I would be able to mount the cable on the clevis without the adapter.

    By the way, thanks for the picture post. I used that to tear the mower apart on my basement work table.

    Hal
     
  6. joecurt

    joecurt LawnSite Member
    Posts: 4

    Roger:

    Thanks so much for your post. I replaced my cable today.

    Do you have any suggestions on adjusting the cable? When I finished with the replacement of the cable, the mower would not pull backwards. I did some adjusting, thought I had it fixed, but it still locked up when I tried to pull back once I started mowing.

    Again, your post was a lifesaver!
     
  7. Roger

    Roger LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,920

    Joe, the problem is most likely in the wheels, not the cable. Did you take off the wheels? Will the wheels drive when power is applied?
     
  8. Roger

    Roger LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,920

    Actually, I should have been more specific in my question. Did you take off the pinion gear that meshes with the gear in the wheel?
     
  9. joecurt

    joecurt LawnSite Member
    Posts: 4

    Roger:

    I removed the left wheel to gain access to the side bolt, but I did not remove the pinion gear. The drive works perfectly when going forward but the wheels are locked when trying to pull it backwards (95% of the time, every once in awhile it rolls free).
     
  10. Roger

    Roger LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,920

    Joe, a couple more questions:

    1. What speed range do you have going forward? When the speed selector lever is in the Turtle position, are you getting much, if any, forward motion? When pushed to the Rabbit position, do you have to run to keep up?

    2. Have you made adjustments to the jam nuts on the anchor position beneath the handle? If not, how did you make a decision where to make the adjustment position?

    I am thinking that you have the wrong position at the anchor point. The present position of your cable is pushing the arm at the transmission too far one way or other, thus locking up the outboard shafts. Normally, when you pull the machine backwards, the outboard shafts are spinning. Maybe your adjustment position is wrong to the extent that the transmission is not allowing the outboard shafts to spin.

    P.S. I asked the above questions, wondering if you removed the pinion gears thinking it would help get access to the cable/transmission connection. And, in the process, the pinion gear was reinstalled wrong. The three machined grooves on the inside of the gear are cut differently, one edge is sharp, the other is sloped -- all three of them are cut this way. The sloped edges permit you to push your machine ahead when no power is coming from the transmission -- that is the click-click-click you hear when pushing the mower, engine off. Since you did not take the gears out, you did not get them reinstalled incorrectly.
     

Share This Page