How to remove blades?

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by Approach, Apr 17, 2007.

  1. Approach

    Approach LawnSite Member
    Posts: 88

    I have a new Lesco 52" Hydro Walk-behind. I have not changed the blades on it yet.

    Does anyone have a suggestion on the best method to change the 3 blades? I don't want to use a Cresent wrench.

    In the long-term, what's the best tool to use every time?
    1/2" Pneumatic Impact Wrench? (Electric)
    1/4" Pneumatic Impact Wrench? (Electric)
    Torque Wrench?

    Should I buy a the Robi Impact Wrench (Cordless from Home Depot)

    Can anyone send me a link to a picture of the tool they suggest?
     
  2. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,653

    Certainly no 1/4" that is way too weak, I've got a stout little 3/8"s that works but I'd recommend 1/2" because of the socket sizes.

    The economical way is get a BIG adjustable wrench and slip it on a top bolt, then wedge the wrench some kind of way so it doesn't move (either on a caster or on some part of the frame, maybe the chute, idk, depends).
    Then, get a 1/2" Big socket wrench and an extender pipe, lift and support the deck and use that on the bottom bolt but careful how much of your body you let underneath the Wb, once you start to pull on the bar I would make sure no parts of your body are underneath.
    I did it this way for 1-2 years.

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    Now that socket wrench is 1/2", I bought that and the socket specially for this, you could use a torque wrench but practice will give you the feel over time about as fast, just remember it doesn't have to be super tight, I'd say use most of your strength but leave some to spare... Another way to measure that is, never use more strength than you can compensate for should something slip, so nice and tight but not ooooomph omg so.

    The next-most economical way is to get an electric rechargeable impact, I've never used this method but more than a few Lco's on here have and swear by it, I think it's feasible myself and may one day get one just so I can do in-the-field blade swaps.

    The most expensive way is to get a compressor and tools and hoses, but by the time you're done buying all the needed accessories you will spend close to a thousand dollars (assume the compressor is under 500 too). You want at least a 25-30 gallon tank, don't get a small compressor because the tools consume a considerable amount of air (gallons per minute) and a smaller tank can't keep the hoses pressurized enough. Even my 30-gallon setup I have to turn up the psi to 110 and you're not supposed to turn it past 90, but a 50-60 gallon compressor was out of my budget...

    I would recommend either the manual method or splurge a little on the electrical deal, until you're established and can afford a big unit with all the bells and whistles.
     
  3. Roger

    Roger LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,927

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