how to restand a fallen tree.

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by G. Ramey, Apr 26, 2011.

  1. G. Ramey

    G. Ramey LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 376

    I just picked up a new account yesterday. unfortunatly it rained about the time I pulled up to the yard, so I didn't get to cut it. I walked around and got a good look at everything. There was a small willow tree that had fell over in the soft ground. It looked to be a container tree that someone had set out, probably a year or two ago. It's about 12-15 foot tall and has been down for a while, but is perfectly healthy and green. The homeowner wants me to try and save the tree. If I stand it back up what is the best way to keep it standing. I am afraid a rope will damage the tree over time. Is there a better way to secure it? Thanks.
     
  2. cuttin-to-the-Max

    cuttin-to-the-Max LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,329

    how about a rope with a rubber sleeve on it pulling it into the upright position?
    the just tie it to a wood/metal stake
     
  3. mybowtie

    mybowtie LawnSite Senior Member
    from NY
    Posts: 683

    I run the rope thru a 16" lenght of old garden hose.
     
  4. TuffWork

    TuffWork LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 507

  5. Dr.NewEarth

    Dr.NewEarth LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,405

    International Society of Arboriculture Google "ISA" and look for tree staking

    also, search Dr. Alex Shigo for proper pruning practices

    Our landscape standard suggests that a deciduous tree have two stakes,
    with one on each side

    A coniferous usually gets three stakes.

    We use this heavy duty woven stuff.

    The hose bit with a piece of rope works well
    Don't use wire. If it isn't removed on time, it will girdle the tree.

    Stakes should not be used for longer than two years.
    You want the tree to develop roots and good trunk taper,
    so that it doesn't have to rely on the stakes.

    Watch that the ropes don't damage the bark.

    When you replant throw a few handfuls of bonemeal around the roots
    and kneed the soil between the roots, like you were making bread dough.

    You don't want any air pockets.

    Usually we water when the hole is half back filled and then put the rest of the soil in.
    Soil should only be level with the top of the root ball and no higher.
     
  6. Rockwell Landscaping

    Rockwell Landscaping LawnSite Member
    Posts: 20

    If it's been down for 2 plus years I'd say it would be hard to just prop it up and stake it. The root system is already holding it at it's current angle. Best way would be to dig around the root ball and basically re-plant it. Stake it to keep from happening again but make sure to leave a little wiggle room on the guyline to help promote root growth.
     
  7. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,654

    The three biggest issues are you need to find how you can get the leverage going
    to stand it up straight first, without that you're wasting your time.

    Don't PULL on it with that ZTR!!!
    If the rope should break or a chain would snap, the result could kill or maim.
    I suppose you could try pushing it with the Z but I don't think it would do much.
    And I really think using the truck is out of the question as well, it would be extremely dangerous.

    If the tree is almost horizontal you can forget pulling it straight, at least not with no rope or chains.
    You'll need to either lift it vertically from above, or get up under it so you'll probably need
    something like a tractor with a bucket to get up underneath it.
    Then, once you get it straight, hold it there while you tie it down second.

    And three...
    You need something that will hold 5-10 thousand pounds test, like tie-down straps work real good,
    especially since you can tie and then adjust, use reinforcement bars (rebars) cut to two feet,
    nail these a foot and a half deep in the ground, then tie the straps to one, around the tree... And!!!
    Protect the tree with some cloth, then run the strap flat around it and back to another piece of rebar.
    Adjusting the straps will help pull it some, too.

    Keep doing that, I'd say somewhere between 3-6 tie-down straps ALL around (don't let it fall the other way either)
    Get some half-decent ones, like an inch or so wide and make sure they are like a bright orange color
    so they'll point to the rebar as you won't be able to see the steel pieces sticking out of the ground later.

    These tie-downs will have to be left in place at least two full years, maybe longer.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2011
  8. Snyder's Lawn Inc

    Snyder's Lawn Inc LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,541

    Re bar For steaks That wont hold much
    Drive you a fence post pull off that or a Tree anchor
    Be best dig around tree and just re plant it anchor with a fence post or Tree anchor
     
  9. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    Dig the rootball around on all sides and rock it into the hole... Sounds like a poorly planted B&B so remove the burlap and plant it properly. soak it down well at the proper height and it may not even need staking...

    I seldom stake, but 12-15 tall with a ball and socket rootball you may have too... 3 sides is always best and plan to remove when the leaves come off in the fall... Willow should send out roots quickly if planted correctly...
     
  10. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,654

    It's not that I've never done this, wasn't no small sapling in my case either and rebar is exactly what was used,
    you can buy the stuff in various sizes so you probably need something a little more than the thinnest they sell you and
    maybe you got to knock it two feet down, rebar sells in 3/8, 1/2" and so on, that's in addition to different lengths and I can
    guarantee that stuff won't budge a 1/4"! so who cares, you Mister has done this before it WILL hold and either way you still
    have to get the tree straight first.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2011

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