1. Missed the live Ask the Expert event?
    Not to worry. Check out the archived thread of the Q&A with Ken Hutcheson, President of U.S. Lawns, and the LawnSite community in the Franchising forum .

    Dismiss Notice

Hows this program

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by LAWNGODFATHER, Nov 30, 2001.

  1. 1: spray dimension or barricade + 24-6-12 40sku (at half rate) or 5-5-20+dimension

    2: Momentum or Trimec + 24-6-12 40sku (at half rate) + liquid iron

    3: Momentum or Trimec + 24-6-12 40sku (at half rate) + liquid iron

    4: (Optional) Merrit or Mach 2 or Dylox

    5: MSMA 24-6-12 40sku (at half rate) +liquid iron

    6: 28-3-10 (regular rate)

    (half rate or less for fert only) Don't want to be Lawn Steroids
  2. Kent Lawns

    Kent Lawns LawnSite Senior Member
    from Midwest
    Posts: 870

    Merit is better than Mach 2.
    Dylox is a curative grub. Merit is a preventative. They should be applied at different times.

    What are you using the MSMA for? Skip that and use Drive 75 as needed.
  3. Crab grass nutsage etc... haven't heard of drive
    also was going to use MSMA as needed

    Merit, mach 2 or dylox looking for opinions on the 3
  4. Kent Lawns

    Kent Lawns LawnSite Senior Member
    from Midwest
    Posts: 870

    For crabgrass, Drive 75 is MUCH better. Works faster with no damage to surronding turf and turns crabgrass purple and dead instead of yellowish like MSMA.

    For nutsedge you want Manage. Works MUCH better than MSMA because it gets the nutlet. MSMA leaves the nutlet to spout again.

    As a season long grub control, Merit seems to be SOMEWHAT better than Mach 2.

    Dylox is a curative. No risidual control. Apply when grubs are present. Merit must be applied before grubs are present.
  5. Thanks dude

    I wanted to use MSAM again to keep costs down since Manage is $85 for so little product. and to keep from mixing sevral products that one did.

    How about the rest of the app. stuff
  6. GreenQuest Lawn

    GreenQuest Lawn LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 822


    the thing with Manage though is its like 1 teaspoon/1000sq ft.

    the amount of product is VERY small.

    I thought the same thing about the size of the bottle untill I saw the mix rate.
  7. HBFOXJr

    HBFOXJr LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,712

    Use the spoon in the bottle or a damn fine scale. I think for hand touch up you mix .9 gram, yeh thats right .9, one LEVEL spoon/gal of water. It doesn't dissolve right away, so mix and mix and mix, then shake when you get to the job and shake while you spray. Also use the 1 oz/gal or whatever of non-ionic surfactant as they say. Spray till wet like they say.

    It's great on nutsedge. You'll get more but it'll be from other nuts. I sprayed some 3 times this summer and it was significantly less the second trip and almost none the 3 rd. I'll watch next year.


    Only mix what you will use immediately. Letting this stuff sit over night or 24 hrs in a tank kills its effectiveness. It's active ingredients are not stable in water and it degrades. I learned this at Rutgers University this past summer. I also left some in the tank and sprayed the following day at home to check and it didn't do squat.
  8. HBFOXJr

    HBFOXJr LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,712

    I used this on some Dalis grass that had been bugging me for several years in my yard. Worked well when Acclaim wouldn't touch it.

    Gotta have a full arsenal.
  9. Runner

    Runner LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,496

    I'm not so sure about all the insecticide, if it may not even be necessary, but how come you're not using an acidifier?
  10. Lime on an as needed basis.

    I'm just putting a program together for next season.

Share This Page