Hypro D30 vs. D403

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by whoopassonthebluegrass, Mar 3, 2009.

  1. whoopassonthebluegrass

    whoopassonthebluegrass LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,213

    NOTE: while I'm discussing this directly with Pete, anyone with any ideas/opinions outside of his, I'd still like to hear them!!

    So just have the bypass drop back into the tank then? You feel that'll alleviate some of the drama I'm dealing with?

    Just trying to understand what's happening in the pump here - is it that the diaphragms are having to fight resistance as they push the fluids through, or what?

    While this appeals to my pocketbook, I must confess that I'm fearful of putting my faith back into the D403... How strongly do you feel that this issue will be remedied via the replumbing?

    So just remove the existing unit and plumb the one in that you linked to? And once that's done, does that mean I'm gonna deal with massive clogs at my nozzle? Also, is it feasible to just purchase a different mesh for the existing filter?

    Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2009
  2. whoopassonthebluegrass

    whoopassonthebluegrass LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,213

    Thanks for the input. I only run prodiamine.
     
  3. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,904

    I think Pete is right. He sounds like the voice of experience. The way Lesco routed the pressure dump bypass flow, back to just in front of the filter--is a bad idea--and another reason--when you are not spraying, the fluid going around and around endlessly heats up. It may exceed the safe working temperature of the diaphragms. Make sure you are using the genuine "Desmopan" diaphragms, not the ordinary cheap black rubber diaphragms. Esters and warm water temps are harder on the diaphragms.

    What speed is the motor running? Is the Kawi at max? If you don't need high pressure half throttle may be enough--and easier on the pump.

    My setup sends the bypass flow back into the agitation line using a Tee fitting. Works fine. There is not much restriction in this return line, in my setup (I use four spraying systems agitation booster nozzles. (I use Hypro D252 pump --6 gal per min).

    Brass and galvanized iron have not caused any problems in my setup.

    I use a 325 mesh filter screen in front of the pump. Have a hundred mesh pre-filter inside the tank.

    I use a spraying systems pressure relief valve with stainless steel seats--it 's better.
     
  4. heritage

    heritage LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,258

    I hope that make it more clear to you Whoop.

    Also remember that the 20 mesh or the 16 mesh if you go with the TeeJet Suction filter, allow better flow and clog far LESS. THIS relieves a LOT of stress on the Diaghprams as well as fixing that Bypass line corectly.

    Pete
     
  5. whoopassonthebluegrass

    whoopassonthebluegrass LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,213

    So if I reroute the bypass into the tank, could I just tie mine into the existing agitation line, too? Or would I need to increase the diameter of the agitation plumbing to prevent the same problem occurring on the way back down into the tank?

    tank03a.jpg
     
  6. heritage

    heritage LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,258

    Riggle,

    More good points, great.

    I only run the throttle about 3/4 full with everything except wettable powders and Nitroform Powder Blue....With those I need ALL 9 or so of the GPM of the D-30 in a 300 Gal tank, as well as my Supermix Agitator on a pressure line, to keep in suspension.

    So running full throttle otherwise IMO is overkill.

    The Spraying Systems Pressure Relief Valve is a great option as far as wear is concerned. The Stock Valve that Comes on the D-30 has the "Hockey Puck" that you access by removing the 2 bolts to change. If you use abrasive materials, and you have lost pressure, but it's not erratic at the pressure gauge, from a worn valve and seat or some crud in between, you can bet that hockey puck has a big Divot worn into it. Riggle's switch is a good option if you have dedicated the sprayer for either High pressure Ornamental OR Just Turf and low pressure Ornamental spraying as with the 0-300 psi option Relief valve you can't run over 300 psi and with the 300-700psi Relief valve, you won't be able to run low pressure Turf, because you will not have enough sensitivity, and too heavy spring.

    Agree with the Better Diaphram option also, an also point out NON-DETERGENT OIL to Whoop.......Did you know that one Whoop......It's in the Manual. The Detergent also break down the Rubbers.


    Good discusssion for the Hypro Pump Users.

    Pete
     
  7. whoopassonthebluegrass

    whoopassonthebluegrass LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,213

    As I was putting the sprayer together for those pix, I found that my strainer glass is cracked internally all the way around. So maybe it's time to replace it, anyhow. I like the comfort of seeing that filter anytime I am over at the pump and motor. I think I'll try the same unit with the 20 mesh... Is this the unit you were referencing?

    http://www.rittenhouse.ca/asp/Product.asp?PG=2179 (the $42.08 choice)

    I've been running the yellow 2GPM nozzle. I use this setup strictly for turf.

    That sounds nice. I clog my nozzle quite frequently. Where in the assembly do you have it connected? Just prior to the reel?

    So far so good. I wouldn't say I'm out of the woods yet, but I genuinely appreciate all the help thus far.
     
  8. whoopassonthebluegrass

    whoopassonthebluegrass LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,213

    I always run the Desmopan diaphragms and SAE30 Non-detergent oil.
     
  9. heritage

    heritage LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,258

    Whoop.

    No. Leave those alone. That line that returns to the tank/jet agitation is on a PRESSURE line of the Pump itself. This won't hurt the Diaphrams, and you will get better mixing/suspension with that setup.

    You will need to Buy a Bulkhead of proper size. I will look up what you need and post for you.

    When your bulkhead comes in the mail, you will take it to a Hardware Store to buy the Correct Size Hole Cutter, and then mount near the existing 2 bulkheads where the pressure line agitation and the Suction to pump hose is mounted on top of the Tank.......It's EASY to do and it wont leak as the Bulkhead screws together like a sandwich with a rubber gasket between.

    Then just put a nylon plug where you remove the existing 3/8 hose that goes from the pump bypass to the manifold near the filter.

    You will also need a longer 3/8 hose to run from the Pump to the new bulkhead /fitting you add to the top of the tank....That is the Pump "Bypass" and should have no resistance.

    It won't be hard to do. I will get some links on here for you for parts.

    Pete
     
  10. whoopassonthebluegrass

    whoopassonthebluegrass LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,213

    I was eyeballing these ones earlier:

    http://www.turfeagle.com/products/product1204.html

    Actually, wood bits (spade bits for larger sizes) bore through the tank with incredible ease, and accuracy.

    Should I run something bigger than 3/8"?? The original line there was a 1" hose.

    Thanks.
     

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