I need help turning

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by STRINGALATION, Mar 14, 2007.

  1. STRINGALATION

    STRINGALATION LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 777

    Hey everyone. I am proud to say i bought my first commercial mower, a early 90's bunton 36" wb. I have cut my grass 3 times now trying to get the feel of it. for you new comers those handles are not throttles they are brakes. lol
    I have two questions for you vet
    1. I have not bought a sulke/velke so i do not leave 2nd gear but a couple of times making turns to stripe i dug my lawn on the pivot wheel. anyone tell me why
    2.can i change gears while running ergo 3rd on straightaways then down to 1 to turn then back up.

    so proud to put my 21's up well actually i keep one on my trailer still some of my yards i can't use the big mower lol

    to all you guys with over 100" of total cutting power competition just makes me get good and you get better
     
  2. PearceLawn

    PearceLawn LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 290

    Just be sure to keep the inside (pivot) wheel turning at all times. Don't let it stop in the turn. You are doing the right thing by practicing first!!

    Good luck with it!!

    Stay safe!!
     
  3. LTDLawnCare

    LTDLawnCare LawnSite Member
    Posts: 77

    I had the same problem when i got my first commercial walk behind a few years ago. I also was practicing on my lawn. I am not sure if your mower is a hydro or not but what i learned to do was use the hand controls to slow the mower down. When it is going slower you just have to keep both wheels turning ( the outside one more than the inside one). Just make sure both are moving and you will eliminate your pivot marks. You can also have the mower going as fast as you want on straightaways, you just need to use the hand controls to slow it down.
     
  4. spazfam

    spazfam LawnSite Member
    Posts: 146

    I found on grass that is fairly wet make a turn in the opposite direction for a few seconds and then back to the direction you want which will allow both wheels to continue moving and you should be ok. In a sense you are widening your turn so as not to just pivot in one spot.
     
  5. STRINGALATION

    STRINGALATION LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 777

    i STILL DO NOT HAVE IT DOWN.

    1 IT IS A BELT DRIVE
    2 I USUALLY CUT A FRAME AROUND THE YARD TO TURN AROUND IN WITH THE 21'S THINKING MAYBE CUT A DOUBLE WIDE FRAME AND TRY A THREE POINT TURN. MY REVERSE IS ACTUALLY UNASSISTED, THIS THING WILL BACK UP!!
    3 WHAT ABOUT PEELING OUT ON THE TAKE OFFS? AND WHEELIES?
    IT MIGHT BE A LITTLE 36" MOWER BUT COMING FROM A 21 THIS GUY HAS SOME MUSCLE WILL ADDING A PLATFORM HELP REDUCE SOME OF THESE DILEMAS?
     
  6. JKOOPERS

    JKOOPERS LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,259

    one way i learned was to cut 2 perimeter swipes outlining the property and then when you come up to where you need to turn squeeze both handles lightly to slow down the mower. then if you are making a right turn squeeze the right a little harder but not to hard you wanna keep the right side tire turning the whole time. when taking off slowly release the handles like you would a clutch .
     
  7. eandllandscaping

    eandllandscaping LawnSite Member
    Posts: 9

    You want to shift with your knee/leg if possible. just squeeze the handles down partially(acts as clutch) while in 2nd and shift into 3rd. Its real easy after u get used to it.
     
  8. dhardin53

    dhardin53 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 711

    I picked up a Bunton 36"er hyrdo in MO last January. I have only worked on it, and when testing out the unit i hit my car, and one of my riders. It takes some getting us to.

    I have a LCO friend that has a veley type bull rider i think. it has the swivel wheels, he wants to sell it to me real cheap. I think the swivel wheel is a must if your going to do a z turn with the hydros. I only plane on using the Bunton to trim with for the most part, not sure Ill use it much.
     
  9. mini14

    mini14 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 236

    u can shift a vari speed bunton any time from and too any speed without stoping, single wheel sulkies suck...too much weight on 1 wheel will dig in...just perimeter cut twice around and u will not have to stop at all..just grenaded my last bunton last year....lasted 15 years with a 13 honda......have to say i will never ever get another one of those dinos anymore the blade idler and spindle design is way over cpmplicated.....u should be switching out that gearbox oil with mobil SHC 634 its synthetic 140 wt. oil that u will never have to change.....vari speed gear boxes will overheat pulling a sulky with conventional oil brass gears inside.
     
  10. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,653

    As for shifting, best I can tell you is leave it in the same gear throughout the duration, only shift if you've come to a complete stop, and even then I'm saying the best method is pick a gear and cut exclusively with that. Reason I say, those Tecumseh's are a mother to replace, not too complicated but a LOT of work (nuts and bolts galore, like 40 or 60 of them or something), takes 4-6 hours to do one, oh and they cost couple of hundred bucks, the trannies. You can rebuild them as well, but that takes even longer and you'll have several days down time waiting for the parts on top of having to figure out which one needs replacing.

    They're pretty tough, I like shifting and I consider the tranny swap a part of the price to pay for that luxury, I usually shift mine like a formula 1 lol but a tranny lasts me 4-5 years and it craps out, so far I've only replaced one but I've heard some guys only get a year or two this way... Still, you have to take the pressure off the belts and axles, so the only way to shift in motion is to be 'coasting' when you do it and if you do it wrong, you could ruin it first time thou this hasn't happened to me, it's like shifting a standard without the use of the clutch, so you take that chance.

    Again, best recommendation is pick a gear and stay in it.
    Yes, you're actually better off even if in the wrong gear, to just use the belts to adjust for speed (might be easier with a T-bar).
    What you do beyond that is your responsibility.
     

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