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I need Septic Help

Discussion in 'Heavy Equipment & Pavement' started by Dirtman2007, Jun 26, 2013.

  1. excav8ter

    excav8ter LawnSite Member
    Posts: 201

    It's interesting how different parts of the country do things.... around here a septic and drainfield is basically 2 tanks totaling around 1500 -1800 gallons, and a drain bed that is a minimum of 900 square feet, depending on the amount of living space in the house....not the amount of bathrooms. I don't do to many, but we basically dig out the drain bed area, place 8"-10" of stone, then lay out the drainage pipe, and finish by placing more stone up to the top of the pipe, cover it with a layer of straw and your done. Sometimes the bed is square and somtimes it's rectangle.
     
  2. AWJ Services

    AWJ Services LawnSite Platinum Member
    from Ga
    Posts: 4,276

    The problems with just a bed is you get little or no aerobic bacteria colonies in the middle of the bed due too the lack of oxygen available for the soil through the trench sidewalls so they are a last choice for us here. The tank is a processing tank and the larger the tank is the cleaner the effluent is coming out of the tank. It is the first step of effluent cleaning. The tank relies on anaerobic bacteria for this. The water then goes in trenches, beds, etc and at the soil interface anaerobic bacteria forms a layer called a biomat that further cleans the effluent and slows the absorption process down. A small colony of aerobic bacteria setups there as well( if oxygen is available) and it actually feeds off the biomat and helps stop it from becoming a clogging mat( which is bad). Finally the remaining contaminants are remove as the effluent moves through the soil. Sizing a system is done different ways in different states, however waterflow is what each different method is establishing or how many gallons per day you will be running into the tank. Most systems are over designed by several 100% because waterflow can be so hard to establish and changes drastically from house too house, times of the year and same house after it is sold. Regardless of product used actual sq/ft of soil interface seems too be the most important design criteria other than GPD of flow and soil characteristics. Gravel and pipe is still one of the best solutions for conventional leach fields unfortunaetly cost deters the homeowner from using it most often times.
     
  3. AWJ Services

    AWJ Services LawnSite Platinum Member
    from Ga
    Posts: 4,276

    Nice Bobber!

    Usually if you backfill the tank they will stay put but it happens. I strongly recomend that you don try and lift the tank with chains without the lifting bar the tank truck used. I usually just pump the water out and have the tank truck lift it and then I clean the hole and reinstall it.
     
  4. ksss

    ksss LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 7,126

    Yea if your not careful you can collapse the walls. I pay to have a tank truck set the tank. Even though I could set them with my own excavator. They assume all liability from transport to setting it. If it cracks or breaks they buy it, not me.
     
  5. Dirtman2007

    Dirtman2007 LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,366

    I dipped all the water out and then dug the 2' of liquid mud out from both sides of the tank. Then I wiggle the corners a little and it was within a inch or 2 of being back to the same level it was to start with.


    Now my next problem is waiting for everything to dry, I dug one leach line this morning and had groundwater just leaking in everywhere.


    wont never pass like that:dizzy:
     
  6. ksss

    ksss LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 7,126

    yea that's going to be a mess.
     

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