I need some help with broadleaf weeds

Discussion in 'Organic Lawn Care' started by Olylawnboy, Jul 13, 2005.

  1. SodKing

    SodKing LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,648

    Have you offered to spray the area with a shielded sprayer?
     
  2. FLD

    FLD LawnSite Member
    Posts: 29

    Killing everything with the plastic would bring you to the pint of steril soil. The you would have to start over with compost and foods to rebuild the soil. Would it not be better to do a complete soil test to see what the soil needs so the grass can out compete the weeds. Grass grows better in a soil with a one to one bacterial to fungal biomass, so if the weeds have taken over slowly over the last 15? yrs, it seens that the soil is missing something that the grass needs to out compete the weeds. Testing is expensive, but it is the only sure way to know what the soil needs. We use SFW New York but David said that he knew/used? a less expensive lab. David?
     
  3. organictwo

    organictwo LawnSite Member
    Posts: 5

    Use the Green Guardian product. Spray it once a week for three weeks, and then aerate, seed, and water.

    After establishment, you will have to do the three-spray program again and the weeds will be wiped out.

    I use the green guardian- selective broadleaf product with terrific results.
     
  4. cowboy bob

    cowboy bob LawnSite Member
    Posts: 4

    Could you tell me more about Green guardian. I am looking into starting up an organic program. Where do you get it from? Also what is the price?
     
  5. NattyLawn

    NattyLawn LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,643

    Green Guardian is a site sponsor and have a forum on here. Price is dependent on how much you're purchasing.

    www.farmcropextracts.com
     
  6. trying 2b organic

    trying 2b organic LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 566

    I have renovated many lawns chemical free. My best and most cost effective results in a case such as yours is from:

    1. Topdress with compost (1 yd per k)
    2. Heavy overseed
    3. Organic based starter fert.

    With proper watering you will have a new lawn. Do it at a time where you get less competition from weeds. For eg here in PNW I would do it in March not May.


    btw dont worry about killing benificial micro organisms. They are easily replaced. A skim of compost or an app of compost tea will do it, thats for the above posting about killing with black plastic.

    edit, my compost is a local product called sea soil, use excellent compost that you know has been made weed free.
     
  7. Norm Al

    Norm Al LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,227

    here you go,,,try this... www.crabgrassalert.com somebody will probably come up with a dumb reason why you shouldnt try it tho!
     
  8. TurfProSTL

    TurfProSTL LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 693

    ^ I wouldn't apply anything without being able to check out the label first.

    What exactly is this stuff? How much do you apply? What is the cost?
     
  9. Norm Al

    Norm Al LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,227

    did you check out the label for corn gluten? did it work? how much does it cost?

    man dude make an investment,,,,call the people,,,,,you got any other alternatives for killing weeds?
     
  10. TurfProSTL

    TurfProSTL LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 693

    I figured it was over-priced, small packages of corn gluten. The company is so proud of this fact it doesn't post the label on-line and lists the ingredients on the MSDS as proprietary (top secret).

    No thanks.

    For crabgrass, I will continue to use lower-rate pre-emergent herbicides. Dimension, for example, does a decent job at a single application rate of 1/4 of a pound AI per acre. Costs less, easier on trucks and equipment and applicators, and does a better job than CGM ever will. And you are spreading out 1/4 lb of chemical (eek) over an acre of turf.....
     

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