IH Cub cadet 1000

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Tomuchmowing4me, May 2, 2006.

  1. Tomuchmowing4me

    Tomuchmowing4me LawnSite Member
    Posts: 27

    1976 Cub cadet 1000 K241 10hp 44" deck. Seems to lose power while in the cut while mowing. I have noticed that while mowing it will pull down and sometimes puff a smoke ring out when losing power, like losing power and almost stall out. Have had this mower since 93 and motor was rebuilt in 90. It does not smoke and uses only 4oz-6oz of oil after mowing 2-3 acres. Spindles turn fine, belts seem fine, mule drive seems fine. Plug looked like it was burning way lean. Had white bubbles inside spark areas. Tried adjusting carb. But no clue what i was doing. Looking at carb the right screw I turned out from seat 2 turns, the top screw I turned 2 1/2 turns out from seat. Didnt seem to help and gas would spit out of carb on shut down. I messed with the govenor screw and picked up the rpm that way. Seemed to help some. Any ideas because I'm lost here.
     
  2. oldrustycars

    oldrustycars LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 301

    have you chacked all the tune up stuff, have the points and condensor been changed recently? were the points set with a timing light, as kohler suggests? it makes a huge difference. air and fuel filters good? i'd do a compression test first. less than about 90 and i'd worry. after doing a dry test, squirt a little oil in the cylinder and do another compression test. if it comes way up you're losing compression past the rings. and using 4-6 ounces of oil sounds exsessive to me. my 124 cub cadet doesnt get any oil added all season. i only mow less than 1/2 acre, but it stays right to full all season. the mix screws should be set at one turn from snug as a starting point. with the engine at idle, the screw closest to the engine gets turned out til it stumbles, then in til it stumbles, the set it half way between the two. same for the one on the bottom, but with the motor at full throttle. if it isnt on the bottom, its on top but lines up with the screw that holds the float bowl on.
    high speed is 3600 rpm, you'll need a tach. im guessing a tune up issue here, even if it is using some oil the cast iron kohlers should still run strong.
    and may i suggest www.ihregistry.com. its a registry for all pre 1981 cub cadets. both of mine are in there.
    On Kohler flywheels, there should be a T and an S stamped into the edge of the flywheel. The T is for Top Dead Center (0º TDC), and the S is for Spark Advance (20º BTDC position). When setting the timing, always set it on the "S" mark. Don't trust setting the points with a .020" feeler gauge because the ignition timing may not be right on the 20° mark, and the engine won't produce full power. If necessary, place a white paint mark on the flywheel and the bearing plate to see both of them clearly with an automotive inductive timing light. Widening the points gap advances the timing, and narrowing them retards it.

    If you have the small diameter (8") flywheel, then the timing marks (on both the bearing plate and the flywheel) are located on the right side of the block, facing the flywheel. But if you have the larger 9" flywheel, the timing marks are on the left side of the block. To find the "T" mark on the flywheel (meaning Top Dead Center), rotate the crankshaft so the piston is exactly at top dead center position on the compression stroke. The "S" mark is exactly 20° BTDC of the T mark. (S stands for Spark Advance, which is where the timing is set at.) You may have to clean the flywheel to see the marks. Apply a spot of white paint on the S mark so it'll be easier to see where to set the timing with a timing light. And to adjust the ignition timing, you widen or narrow the ignition point gap.
     
  3. Tomuchmowing4me

    Tomuchmowing4me LawnSite Member
    Posts: 27

    Ended up being a broken wire from the points to the coil side stud+nut. Inside coil wire was sprung alittle (loose) too. Runs like a charm again. Thanks olerustycars for your suggestions too.
     
  4. Tomuchmowing4me

    Tomuchmowing4me LawnSite Member
    Posts: 27

    On a model 1000 year 1975 with 10hp kohler. After I get the carb adjustments done at low idle and running good at WOT. How do you adjust the governer? Messed with the governer when i was have troubles with it running and want to make sure I have it close to what it is suppose to be again.
     
  5. fly-4-fun

    fly-4-fun LawnSite Member
    Posts: 0

    If you have moved the governor arm, what you do is, with the engine not running, loosen the nut on the governor arm, move the governor arm away from the carb as far as it will go. Then grab the shaft that the arm is on and turn it counter-clockwise as far as it will go, then tighten the nut on the arm. This should set it back to factory setting. Be sure you have at least a 1/16" clearance between the big nut on the block and the governor arm. This will keep the arm from binding when it operates.
     
  6. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,022

    Some of these old K series engines had the throttle linkage hooked to the other side of the throttle shaft, So on some models moving the gov. lever away from the carb. would be idle position.
    A better way to put it is; Set the throttle control to wide open position watching which way the lever turns the gov. shaft. Then loosen the pinch screw and turn the shaft the same direction unit it stops and tighten.
     
  7. fly-4-fun

    fly-4-fun LawnSite Member
    Posts: 0

    Thanks for the back-up, Rob. I had just finished a rebuild of a K241 for a buddy of mine and followed the Kohler manual, but you are right again!! :D
     

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