Irrigating a large hill, burm?

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by absolutelawnman, Jun 8, 2006.

  1. absolutelawnman

    absolutelawnman LawnSite Member
    Posts: 83

    A development has called and asked me to give them a bid on irrigating 3 large hills in a common area of a new neighborhood. The hills are about 20' above grade, 10' wide at top and are used to keep noise down from major road. Plan on using large rotors

    My question is what should I look for when bidding this, if I put the heads at the top of the hill and spray down will I have enough water making it to the ground, especially from the top, middle of the hill do I angle with the side (obvious).

    Maybe I am just looking for information on those of you that have done similiar burms.
     
  2. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    Plan on major runoff problems. :)
     
  3. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 48,041

    Look around for similar situations. California would water slopes with standard rotors on risers, with all the pipe laid above ground, to be eventually obscured by the groundcover plantings. They even have a special grade of PVC for the constant exposure to sunlight.

    One hint - don't bother with shrub rotors, since the nozzles may degrade with constant exposure.
     
  4. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    Another thought. We do have one site with a river berm that is irrigated. We put the sprinklers (Hunter I-40s) only at the bottom of the berm and slightly angled with the slope. The sprinklers are also located about 5' up the hill from its bottom demarcation line. They throw about 8-10' past the top of the berm but there is nothing on top for the water to interfere with. The area between the sprinkler locations and the bottom demarcation line actually gets plenty of water and maintains healthy turf. However, I have to be very careful with the programming of these areas to keep runoff and puddling to a minimum even though the slope is quite sandy.
     
  5. Az Gardener

    Az Gardener LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,899

    I would use MP rotators, they take 1hour 20 min or so to put down 1" of water, standard rotors take 45min. You also want to throw up the hill gravity will bring it back down. I am assuming its turf? If not I would use netafim or Toro's DL-2000 both subsurface drip.
     
  6. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    We've had good succes with Toro 300 Stream Rotors in amphitheater areas also.
     
  7. jerryrwm

    jerryrwm LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,274

    I have to disagree. The MP Rotator actually has a precip rate that is around .43 in/hr. and PGPs and 5004s, et al, when using the larger nozzles, have about the same rates, about .45 in/hr. It takes about 2 hr. 20 min for MPs to put down an inch, and PGPs or 5004s take about the same time. (Check the charts)

    http://www.mprotator.com/techCorner/modelsPerformance.html?model=MP1000

    http://www.hunterindustries.com/products/Rotors/pgpdata.html

    Where the MP shines is that it is a gentler application of the water. Smaller water droplets reduce splash.
     
  8. Green Sweep

    Green Sweep LawnSite Senior Member
    Male, from Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts: 322

    I just recently noticed that the precip rates on MP's & RB 5004's are almost identical. So, essentially, a spray head with an MP can be added to a rotor zone. Not that I am going to run out & start doing this, but an ideal situation could arise. Has anybody gone there?
     
  9. On this forum? Count on it.....
     
  10. absolutelawnman

    absolutelawnman LawnSite Member
    Posts: 83

    The are will be turf, must be below ground to mow, or at least weed eat, I gather from previos post this would be a good option.

    H
    H
    H
    H
    R
    H
    R
    HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
    Or is a bunch of 6 inch popup a better way to go?
     

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