JD 345 20HP Kaw FD611V ignition problem

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by dutch1, May 16, 2008.

  1. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Posts: 2,231

    Problem: Trouble shooting on a neighbors JD 345. It has a Kaw FD611V WC engine. Neighbor reports it has been hard starting for a while but has ran irregularly when hot. He brought it down today while hot. I gave it full throttle several times and most of the time it fell on it's face. Put a spark checker and repeated the full throttle scenario. When it just started to accelerate spark disappeared. I pulled both plug wires one at a time and the engine runs well on one cylinder at idle and starting into acceleration mode. The engine has an igniter and I have heard that it has been the source of this type of ignition problem.

    I'm looking for confirmation from someone who has had a similar problem or from a JD jockey who can confirm my analysis. I'm convinced that the coil(s) are not the problem.

    Dutch
     
  2. kawasaki1

    kawasaki1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 108

    you might want to check if it has a delay module. the main ignition modules do go out, but not very often.

    also check battery voltage. most of these engines use a 12 volt ignition like a car and if the voltage is low the spark will die at higher rpm's.
     
  3. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023

    Dutch,

    I'm not a JD Jock but do know a little about Kawasakis.....[​IMG]


    The igniter does control spark so performing the below test will either show it being the problem or eliminate it.


    [​IMG]



    Good Luck
     
  4. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Posts: 2,231

    Thanks Rob. You did better for me than I did for you.

    I don't own a Kaw specific tool. All I have is a Fluke VOM. In your experience do you feel that the Fluke will suffice? Am I going to be over battery powered as the service manual suggests or obtain unusable results?

    That igniter is in the vicinity of $245 so I don't want to blow it away unnecessarily.

    That a bunch of tests to check the integrity of the igniter. For an old fart like me, I'm not sure I can keep things straight.

    Dutch
     
  5. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023

    Dutch,

    I'm not sure about using a Fluke, I had mine stolen years ago and never got off the wallet and replaced it. I use a Radio Shack brand now and have used a few Taiwan meters. The readings may be a couple points off but I have always found a drastic difference in readings to confirm it bad.

    What I do is print out the test chart then write my readings below the spec I'm testing then go back and compare (I'm not a spring chicken either), In most cases I find a drastic difference within the first four test and deem it bad ceasing any further testing.

    Cya
     
  6. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Posts: 2,231

    That's exactly what I had in mind when I printed the test procedure last night. Wiil do the test and let you know what happens. Your help with the information is greatly appreciated.

    Dutch
     

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