John Deere 110

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by john gov., Jun 18, 2005.

  1. john gov.

    john gov. LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13

    I just made a big mistake. First I paid too much for a 1974 ($600) but it looked real sharp and I knew what I was buying iy for, sort of a yard tractor for my wife and I could cut the rough stuff out back a few times a year. Well, it didn't last five minutes. I would say it ran for two minutes before my son ran the rpm's up real high then engaged the deck. I was coming after him to slow it down when I heard that unmistakeable sound of a rod letting go.
    I got the engine out and tore it down (It's a Kohler 10 hp) model K241AS. The only apparent damage is the busted rod.
    My question is how dumb would it be if I just replaced the rod & bearing assembly, threw on a set of piston rings and put her back together without pulling the crank and having it machined? Should I just throw the whole thing out and kiss off my $600? Should I buy another engine, or should I take the engine to a shop and have them put it right. Either way I go I'm in too deep.
    Any market for John Deere lawn ornament? Has a nice paint job and a brand new seat. Thanks for any advice.
    John Gov.
     
  2. Lawn Masters

    Lawn Masters LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 850

    An engine that old, is more than likely to break again if you just put a new rod in it, I'd put a new engine on it and keep on goin.
     
  3. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    First of all can you tell me in what area did the rod break,Up by the piston,In the center or at the crank,Did the rod cap break. This info. could tell a story as to why it broke in the first place. It is not dumb to only replace a rod if the crankshaft is within specs.,But I don't understand what you mean when you say replace the rod & bearing for there is no bearing in this rod.
     
  4. john gov.

    john gov. LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13

    The rod broke halfway up itself and the cap (if that's the piece that bolts to the bottom of the rod) was in pieces. I thought there would be a sleeve bearing between the rod and the crank, but now I recall there were no sleeve bearing pieces in the debris so I must have been thinking automotive. ..no bearing here.
    Is there a way to check the roundness of the crank without pulling it and how critical is it to be in perfect spec?
    So you think this might shed some light on the initial problem. Ya know, I thought it was reving extremly high when my son got on it. I had just run a couple of rows myself without a problem. Sure she smoked a bit but I took it easy. I did have the throttle up and now I'm wondering if the governor didn't do it's job when my son got on board because the high rpm's really got my attention and I don't think I got her up that high when I was running her.
    So yeah, can I just strap another rod on this rig and not blow it up again?
    Thanks,
    John Gov.
     
  5. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    Ok what this has told me is that it is most likely the rod broke from the over rev.,You can get a micrometer on the crank without removal and check for out of round and it shouldn't be more than .0005 ,I tried to download the service manual from my dealer web and couldn't do so for some reason so I don't have the crank reject size available today,But can have tomorrow when I return to work. You would also want to replace the gov. gear while its apart.
    If the crank is within specs. and the gov. replaced and adjusted properly I really see no reason for it to blow again,Have done this same repair many times in the past.
     
  6. john gov.

    john gov. LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13

    Thanks for the help. I'll measure the crank and look for the governor gear. When I think governor I think of something electrical or vacuum. I never thought it would be a gear.
    Would the best place to buy parts be the local John Deere dealer or is there a site here that you all work with online?
    john gov.
     
  7. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    I havn't ran across a site for Kohler parts as of yet , But you could do some surfing yourself and find something. As for a John Deere dealer I would stay as far away from one of those as possible everything is higher there just because its a Deere. You can get these parts at any shop that sells Kohler powered equipment.
     
  8. Tech man

    Tech man LawnSite Member
    Posts: 55

  9. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    This is the same website I use as a dealer,You may be able to get the service manual to down load on your computer and it will give you all the specs. needed for your repair,But you can't order parts from this site.
     
  10. Smalltimer1

    Smalltimer1 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,223

    Yes you can rebuild it if there's not a big hole in the block. I'm having the K-341 from my JD 300 rebuilt, rods are on backorder for Kohlers right now though, because the pulling crowd always re-rods this time of year for pulling season.

    The K-series are very desireable engines for pullers, great low end torque and will last forever. The reason yours let go is probably because it was run low on oil at some point.

    If at all possible, rebuild it, it shouldn't cost more than $450. My 341 is going to cost just a touch over $400.

    Do not just re-rod it. Have it bored out, the crank ground, and new piston, rod, rings, and everything in that area, if you're gonna do it, do it right. You'll thank yourself later.
     

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