Just another day at the office.

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by PurpHaze, Feb 21, 2007.

  1. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    Went to turn the isolation valve back on for the repair job we did at the high school yesterday. Dang ball valve is 26" deep and had so much back-pressure on it that we were unable to open it by hand. Had to take my box lid puller, jam it down the sleeve into the ground next to the valve and then gently bump the handle to get it to open. Needless to say... we went and ordered a 2-1/2" resilient wedge valve this afternoon and we'll replace the sucker as soon as parts come in. :cry:

    EDHS Parking Lot Isolation Valve IV-01.jpg

    EDHS Parking Lot Isolation Valve IV-02.jpg
     
  2. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    Here's a couple of pictures of a QCV system repair from this morning. Apparently the spring weakened allowing the QCV to weep and then a mower wheel cracked the tee by hitting the QCV. Was able to get away with just one Dresser coupling because the 2-1/2" Dressers come in "long barrel" configuration. (We have to pay a little extra if we want the long barrels on 3" and bigger.) This allowed us to cut a piece of pipe and then glue it into the tee leaving a wider gap to be spanned without having to dig a bigger hole and bow the existing pipe.

    Willow Glen QCV Cracked Tee 2-21-07 IV-01.jpg

    Willow Glen QCV Cracked Tee 2-21-07 IV-02.jpg

    Willow Glen QCV Cracked Tee 2-21-07 IV-03.jpg
     
  3. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    That riser tube is sitting right on your mainline, and a PVC ball valve as an isolation valve...Thats pathetic.

    At least that should be a real easy repair. I've only been out of the dirt for three weeks and I'm already wishing I could do that one.
     
  4. Hank Reardon

    Hank Reardon LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 599

    You can take the boy out of irrigation but you can't take the irrigation out of the boy!
     
  5. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    He'll be moonlighting by April!
     
  6. NC_Irrigator

    NC_Irrigator LawnSite Bronze Member
    from NC
    Posts: 1,415

    what do you use to secure your quick couplers.

    & what model # dresser couplings do you use
     
  7. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    I'm not sure exactly what you're asking but if you're referring to the rebar and clamp in the first set of pictures we don't do this. We solely rely on the soil to secure the QCV. The last part of our swing joints is a galvanized nipple and that coupled with the dried soil keeps the QCV from either tilting or unscrewing.

    I believe they're style #38.
     
  8. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    Just another fine LameScape quality installation.

    WHERE it is located is more the challenge. It's in a teardrop planter in a very busy parking lot. We'll have to block off a bit of the lot to give us some safety cushion. I still haven't decided whether we hand dig this one or use the Bobcat backhoe.

    We'll have everything already put together before we open the hole. Then it will just be a matter of dropping it in with the aid of Dresser couplings unless we run into something unusual. We'll be able to turn the water back on before we even backfill. Main thing I'm leery about is that somewhere near the valve it has to dive in order to go under the parking lot.

    The dirt under the fingernails will never go away. :laugh:
     
  9. NC_Irrigator

    NC_Irrigator LawnSite Bronze Member
    from NC
    Posts: 1,415

    Yeh thats what a was referring to. Ive seen some people pour half a bag of concrete in the valve box to stablize the QC (good luck with repairs) and seen some use the rebar with clamp.

    I havent installed but a few, ive used the rebar method.

    Reason i asked about the dresser coupling is i went on their website and and saw only couplings for ductile and cast iron.
    so im guessing they work with no problem on pvc.
     
  10. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    I guess the rebar method works OK but we've just never used it. Once the dirt hardens you can run a large truck or other equipment over it wiithout any problem whatsoever. The problem occurs when a weak spring or debris causes a weeper and then something heavy is run over it. With the ground being soft then breakage can occur. Our swing joints protect the QCV and the main line and breakage will occur at a SCH 80 nipple or 90. These are quickly replaced without glueing and then our water can be immediately turned back on.

    The picture shows a long galvanized nipple attached to the PVC tee with the QCV directly on top which is the way they were originally installed. The shock will go down the galvanized nipple to the weakest point being the PVC which then breaks.

    They do make QCVs with stabilizing wings but we've never used them.

    They show some inclusive for PVC but the ones we use work fine also. Pretty much will work on any pipe with nominal pipe sizes.
     

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