kawasaki -no fire= deere lx172

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by echoman8, Jul 26, 2008.

  1. kawasaki1

    kawasaki1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 108

    the part #'s you have are the ones it calls for.

    i wrote the resistance values for the coil on my notepad which i left at work.:rolleyes: i'll remember to bring them home tomorrow.

    yep. that ignitor must be grounded to work.

    maybe i'll bring the manuals home tomorrow and go from there.
  2. echoman8

    echoman8 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 293

    Thank you kawasaki1

    Manana (tommorrrow). I had a hard day in the trees. Will mechanic on Tuesday.

  3. kawasaki1

    kawasaki1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 108

    i think i might've found your problem. this is straight from jd dtac solution #54382

    original ignitor has failed. previous service ignitors, am128800, am 131198, AM131398 do not start engine.
    if engine does start engine runs erratically.

    order and install ignitor am132770.

    i went back and read your previous posts. the am131398ignitor won't work.

    maybe that's it.
  4. echoman8

    echoman8 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 293

    That is great news. I finally have something solid to go on. I will order the part and try

    Thanks very much

  5. kawasaki1

    kawasaki1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 108

    if you have access to a running f510-525, gt242, or a 325 that has an external ignitor you can use that one for a test.

    it seems the old 14-17 hp. singles use the same ignitor.

    it seems all their troubles started when they got rid of the old m73477 or something ignitors.
  6. mowermankevin

    mowermankevin LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 270

    Echoman, Been following this thread, in between water breaks, did you get any rain out of Dolly? Just turned on the tube and the radar shows rain on top of us, but walked outside and nothing yet. Those igniters have give me fits, can't stand those little P.O.S. expensive add-ons. Just one question, when you said a hard day in the trees, what part am I missing? The joke here is the tallest tree in west Texas is a fence post, married to a Lubbockian and going out there was a real education in scenery and topography. I'd move out there in a heartbeat, we just bought a Leveland 2 year-old quarter horse home and he didn't know what a tree was, or that it is cooler under the tree,something the other two horses have down. Try to stay cool, we have at least another week of this. C'ya K
  7. echoman8

    echoman8 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 293

    Thanks again kawasaki1. The info is really useful. I will have to delay getting the part for a few days. The Deere shops are in Odessa/Midland and I am working the other direction. So far, I cannot find a website selling this part. Will try again.

    ----To "mowerman7" Yea, in West Texas the fence posts or taller than the trees. Yep, I live near Odessa. I worked in Alpine/Fort Davis/Marfa area for several years before doing trees. Now most of my work is still in that area. That mountain country has a good tree population and rather large trees for a desert. The ranches have some giant cottonwoods.

    We got a little sprinkle from Dolly, but the Fort Stockton area got 2 inches +.
  8. echoman8

    echoman8 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 293


    Well the ground to the ignitor was the problem on the ignition. I tested with a test clip and then ran an external ground wire from the mounting screw to the block. I would imagine this condition is the cause for some ignitor failures and some erratic firing.

    I grew up in the aftermarket auto parts business. During the early days of the electronic igntion on cars, the Ford products had a lot of ignition failures (fried modules). A major cause of this was that the module ground system would develop a lot of resistance. No ground and there was no fire, but with a partial ground, the module would fail.

    Now the next problem ----- The engine (kawasaki fc420 as10, john deere lx172) is firing on an open intake valve. Before I remove the cylinder head to inspect, is there anything I need to know?

    Will I have to get a new head gasket or will the old gasket work for a week or 2?

    Are specs (torques, valve lash, etc) available on internet?


  9. kawasaki1

    kawasaki1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 108

    at least it's firing now.:)

    you can pull the rocker cover and check the valve lash. i set them at .005-.007. if the valve springs are equal height when closed it's probably not a stuck valve.

    you've already checked the key and have a new plug so that leaves a timing problem if both valves close. you can also apply air through the plug hole with the engine locked at tdc to check valve sealing.

    one of the things the dtac solution said was "the engine will run erractically, backfiring, missing, etc. if it starts at all" with the wrong ignitor.

    you might want to try your old ignitor just for grins and see if it works. if you can find an am132770 ignitor try that and check the valves before tearing the engine apart.

    some of the old kawasaki's had a riveted plastic cam gear that would slip and throw off the timing like a plastic gear on a car, but most of those failed and were replaced with steel cams.

    you can't reuse the head gaskets, and the torque specs and pattern might be online but i can post a pattern that looks like this since i can't post pics.

    3. 4. 6.
    1. 2.
    7. 5. 8.

    if that would help. it'd probably be tues. since i'm not going i tomorrow.

    my first weekend off in 3 months and i catch a cold.:cry:
  10. echoman8

    echoman8 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 293

    Thanks again. I plan to drive the 120 miles for parts tommorrow.

    The plastic cam gear got me to thinking of a valve test after a rebuild. Most all engines then were “valve in block”. To make sure that the camshaft/crankshaft was aligned correctly, we would turn the engine to top dead center. On one rotation (compression stroke) the valves would be closed, but on the other rotation, the valves would rock at tdc (one valve close while the other opened). If it were assembled wrong (even one tooth off), it would be obvious by observing the valves. Of course the same can be done by watching the push rods on this motor.

    I will post Monday evening after repair.


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