Kentucky Bluegrass and fungicides.

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by NJgunner, Jul 14, 2013.

  1. NJgunner

    NJgunner LawnSite Member
    Posts: 51

    I live in NJ and have kentucky blue grass. This time every year I get fungus due to high temps and humidity. What is a good fungicide to use? I have my mower on the highest setting and only water once to twice per week as needed. Last year I actually let it grow to 6-8 inches because it allowed me to water less.

    I just put down my lesco allectus application, hopefully the nitrogen doesnt let it get too crazy. I know that I have to keep on aerating and dethatching in the fall and also some of the spots that get diseased need some topsoil added to sandy areas that dont retain water.

    What other practices are good besides letting it grow to be longer and heavy infrequent waterings? Right now i water 45mins-1 hour per zone starting at 3am for once a week.

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  2. happyuser

    happyuser LawnSite Member
    Posts: 43

    Bagging the clippings in part also leads to disease issues. Mulch the clipping, lime and like you said aerate and seed in September. Fungicides are expensive and only last 10-14 days. Start with good cultural acts only mow one third off the blade at a time, keep blade sharp, mow high and mulch clippings. in the spring and no disease next yr.
     
  3. NJgunner

    NJgunner LawnSite Member
    Posts: 51


    I always mulch the clippings and have a sharp blade and yes I lime in the spring. thanks
     
  4. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,070

    You say you get fungus. You need an experienced local owner operated professional to do your lawn treatments. You need to identify whatever disease you have been getting. Then get liquid fungicide sprayed on with professional equipment.
    Red thread is particularly common at this time of year.
    http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/download-free.asp?strPubID=FS798
     
  5. NJgunner

    NJgunner LawnSite Member
    Posts: 51

    ttt to the top
     
  6. Skipster

    Skipster LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,074

    I don't see any conclusive signs of disease in your picture. What disease do you think you're seeing?

    A lot of guys who post here are obsessed with "fungus" and think that their lawn always has "fungus." I HATE that term! Turf diseases have specific names. If you don't know what the name is and you can't pinpoint specific symptoms, you don't have a "fungus"!

    A lot of guys who post here are totally convinced that any time a lawn is not absolutely screaming green, it MUST have a fungus. Just because a lawn has brown spots, thinning, or poor color DOES NOT mean it has a "fungus"!

    Learn the specific signs and symptoms of disease activity, as well as the conditions under which they form and the cultural practices you can implement that can reduce their incidence. This is the key to lawn disease management. Lots of guys would rater spray first and ask questions later. Be better than that.
     
  7. Exact Rototilling

    Exact Rototilling LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,359

    Interesting that this publication mentions aeration in late summer and early Fall.....

    In my area we can have hot weather after sprinklers are already blown out and irrigation districts for agriculture and some estate lawns are shutdown...and lawns get stressed.
    :hammerhead:
     
  8. phasthound

    phasthound LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,575

    Excellent advice!
     
  9. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    Tall grass keep a lot of shade and hold moisture at its base for long periods during the day, especially 6-8 inches tall... too tall for a lawn... the grass flops over and kills its neighbors, creating patches of suffocated dying grass all over the place... I've seen it happen a lot over the years...
    Next thing to look closely at,,, is soil drainage and retention... :)
     
  10. foreplease

    foreplease LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,918

    Exactly right, Skipster. Well said.

    I would add it is important to think about what is your threshold and, if a lawn has symptoms, what is the likelihood that a favorable change in the weather or a light application on nitrogen will bring you out of it. Adding N is the wrong thing to do for some diseases, of course. Start with identification and hopefully signs before symptoms.
     

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