Killing wild onion/garlic in fescue

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by Blade Runners, Oct 4, 2013.

  1. Blade Runners

    Blade Runners LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,021

    We just put in a fescue lawn about 25k in size. We have always had a problem with wild onion even before putting in the new lawn. What is the best herbicide to use to get rid of it, and what time of the year should I apply? I have Tenacity but was wondering if there is something to better handle wild onion.

    This is for my own lawn.
     
  2. CHARLES CUE

    CHARLES CUE LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,091

    3way and a surfactant that will remove the waxy surface not hard at all

    Charles Cue
     
  3. Mike A

    Mike A LawnSite Member
    Posts: 74

    And make sure u mow the onions 2 days before u spray to open them up so that the herbicide can get down inside...Fall is best time for control IMO.
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  4. Blade Runners

    Blade Runners LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,021

    Thanks for info on 3way and the tip on mowing before spraying.
    If I would have sprayed Tenacity at seeding time would it have stopped the onions? The yard was harley raked to bare dirt before seeding.
     
  5. Mike A

    Mike A LawnSite Member
    Posts: 74

    I don't beleive tenacity would have any affect on a bulb type weed like wild garlic or onion pre or post
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  6. Blade Runners

    Blade Runners LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,021

    Thanks, I was thinking along the same lines.
     
  7. rlitman

    rlitman LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,539

    Wild onion is actively growing in colder weather than fescue. I have had success with 2,4D in the early spring, before the fescue starts growing.
    One spot application when the snow breaks (I aim for the second half of February), and another shortly before the first mow of the season (when the shoots are sticking up high above the grass in clumps).

    I mix surfactant in with the 2,4D to get it to spread on the waxy coating, and also bruise the weeds with a rake just before spraying. Spray it on the un-cut plants. That give more surface area for absorption.

    A 3-way might be better, but I've got trees in the affected lawn. Plain 2,4D was the safer route for me, and in spot treatments, it worked surprisingly well on wild garlic. It took 2 years (4 applications), but in that time, I've gone from more weed than grass, to almost no wild garlic left. Before that, the onion smell when mowing could get overpowering.
     
  8. CHARLES CUE

    CHARLES CUE LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,091

    I only have to spray them once and there gone. In the spring about april you may want to find a different surfactant. I sprayed some cat tail last week in a field and they have all turned yellow they are on there way out.

    Charles Cue
     
  9. rlitman

    rlitman LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,539

    I believe that the biggest reason I needed multiple applications was that I missed a lot in spot spraying.
    I only sprayed the obvious clumps of wild garlic. What I discovered is that it does not all pop up at the same time.
    In some places, it had grown tall in February. In some, it did not start growing until March. Some places waited until April, and those got missed the first time around.
     
  10. gbmatt

    gbmatt LawnSite Member
    Posts: 39

    We use Cool Power, or 4 speed on all of our fescue lawns in middle TN in late fall and early spring, after the second mowing of the new seeded grass. They will smoke all of your cool season weeds. I would do a blanket spray of the entire lawn, you can't always see newly emerged weeds when spot spraying. Save your Tenacity to spot spray crabgrass next year.
     

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